Last Updated: September 12, 2021
There’s something magical about Boudhanath. Truly.
I’ve been countless times to Boudhanath; and if there is one place that gets me excited in Kathmandu, it’s surely this one. Bold, vibrant and colorful, the bustling Boudhanath is, in fact, one of my favorite places on Earth.
Everything in Boudha dazzles me. Sure, the chaotic streets and the daunting traffic with hundreds of cars, taxis, buses, motorcycles (a lot of motorcycles!), cows, dogs and pedestrians, can be quite impressive; yet, it is probably the only location I know where you can easily find peace amidst chaos. Is that even possible? Boudhanath is a treasure and I can’t recommend it enough. The giant stupa is one of the most beautiful spots in the capital city. And still today, it’s my favorite area to wander in Kathmandu.
OM MANI PADME HUM
A SPIRITUAL WALK AROUND BOUDHANATH STUPA
Boudhanath stupa is one of the largest stupas in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a very popular attraction among foreigners and locals alike; every day, hundreds of tourists and pilgrims walk in a clockwise direction around the stupa, under the protective eyes of Buddha.
Whether you are spending days in Kathmandu or just make it a quick stop, Boudhanath should definitely be on the top of your bucket list. Boudhanath is the quintessential experience one should have when visiting Kathmandu.
Here’s everything you need to know before you visit.
Table of Contents
A Brief History of Boudhanath
There are a lot of legends and stories surrounding the construction of the Boudhanath stupa.
One of the most famous legends says that in the 4th century, King Dharmadeva installed stone water taps (known as ‘Dhunge Dhara’ in Nepali) in the palace courtyards but no water came out from the taps. The King decided to consult his astrologers and was told that in order to receive water, it will require the performance of a human sacrifice, more specifically ‘the sacrifice of the most virtuous man in the kingdom’. The King realized that only him and his son were eligible. The King decided to sacrifice himself but not wanting his son to know that he will perform the sacrifice on himself, he instructed him to decapitate a shrouded form lying near the palace the same night. His son, the prince Manadeva, followed his father’s instructions; he decapitated the covered corpse and horrified, saw the head of his father flew to the Vajrayogini temple. Once his son realized he killed his father, he was regretful. The deity Vajrayogini told Dharmadeva’ son, the new King Manadeva, that the only way to undo his sin was to let a cock fly from the temple and then, wherever the cock lands will be the place where Manadeva should build a stupa for his father’s remains. The cock eventually landed where Boudhanath stupa stands today.
There is another legend. According to the Buddhist mythology, it is said that the Buddha of compassion, Chenrezig, was visiting all the realms of existence, from the realms of the Gods to the Hells, and he saw all beings suffering everywhere. His mission was to help all sentient beings reach enlightenment. But even though a great number of them attained enlightenment, it seems that the number of them in pain wasn’t going lower. Feeling compassionate for the pain of all sentient beings, Chenrezig wept, and made the vow to liberate all beings from the misery of this world. From his tears were born two deities. One of them decided to reborn in the human world and to build a huge stupa to pacify the Earth. Her name was Jadzima. Jadzima married 4 men and each of them died; her first husband was a swine herder, the second a horse keeper, the third a dog keeper and the last one a poultry-man. She gave birth to 4 sons from these 4 husbands. Jadzima was able to accumulate a lot of savings throughout the years, and she eventually decided to build the Great stupa of peace. She went to see the King of Nepal to ask him a land where she could build the stupa. The King gave her a land and she started the construction of the Great stupa with her 4 sons. Jadzima died before the Stupa was achieved, but the Stupa was eventually completed by her sons. It is said that Boudhanath stupa entombs the remains of Kasyapa Buddha, the 27th of the 29 named Buddhas and the 6th of the 7 Buddhas of Antiquity.
Unfortunately, the historical stupa constructed during the Licchavi dynasty (in the 5th century CE) was destroyed by Mughal invaders and the current stupa as we know it today was built after the Mughal invasion, in the 14th century.
What to see and what to do in Boudhanath?
• Follow the pilgrims, walk in a clockwise direction around the stupa, and turn the prayer wheels.
Nepal is a safe haven and a sacred land for Buddhists. Boudhanath is one of the most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites. If there is one place where you can witness the daily rituals of Buddhist monks in Nepal, it is surely this one.
• Take plenty of amazing photos under the colorful prayer flags.
Boudhanath is also a fantastic place for taking photos ~ especially at night when Boudhanath is lit up with thousands of butter lamps.
• Buy souvenirs and handicrafts.
There are many shops around the stupa where you can buy souvenirs, from singing bowls to prayer wheels and prayer flags. However, with that being said, you will have way more choices if you explore the backstreets of Boudhanath (see details below).
• Enjoy a meal at one of the various rooftop restaurants in Boudhanath.
There are plenty of rooftop restaurants where you can admire the spectacular views of the stupa.
• Discover Boudhanath like a local.
Tourists tend to gather around the stupa. Venture further and explore the backstreets with the locals. You won’t be disappointed. Phulbari street is particularly known for its authentic shops and restaurants, and fair prices.
• Learn Thangka painting.
Boudha is quite famous for its Thangka paintings, and you can find some Thangka Art Schools around the Stupa. In fact, many Thangka shops provide training for Thangka art (such as ‘Sara Enterprises ~ Buddhist Thangka Center’).
• Visit the monasteries surrounding the stupa and get a blessing from Buddhist monks.
The closest monastery, Tamang Gompa (also known as ‘Guru Lhakhang Monastery’) stands in front of the Boudhanath Stupa (inside Boudhanath circle). This Monastery is open to the public. Don’t hesitate to take the stairs to the second floor and up to the rooftop, the views from there are amazing. There are also other monasteries worth visiting nearby Boudhanath. Among them, there are the magnificent Shenchen Monastery, the Jamchen Lhakhang (known for its impressive statue of Maitreya Buddha), the White Monastery Ka-Nying Shedrup Ling, and the Sakya Tharig Gompa.
• Eat the local food from Boudha.
Try “Laphing”, a traditional Tibetan noodle dish (we highly recommend ‘CD Laphing center’), or “Thukpa”, a Tibetan noddle soup (‘Khawa Karpo Tasty Noodle Factory‘ serves some of the best thukpas). If you want to try the unique Sherpa dishes in Boudha, head to ‘Himalayan Sherpa Food House’ (located inside a small alley around the Stupa, next to Namaste Bead Handicrafts, near Himalayan Java) and order ‘Rikikur’, a delicious potato pancake, and ‘Rildok’, a traditional Sherpa soup. If you want to know what and where to eat in Boudha, read my article about the top 22 must try food in Boudha with the exact location and price of each item.
• Drink a “Tongba”.
Tongba is an alcoholic beverage made from fermented millet. You can either drink it hot or cold. It is sweet but be careful, it is a refilled drink and it is way stronger than it seems.
• Avoid the crowds and walk to the hidden “Ghyoilisang Peace Park”.
Ghyoilisang Peace Park (also known as Buddha Peace Park) and its pond are located only 2min walk from the stupa; and yet, it isn’t frequented by tourists at all. The soil of this land was used during the construction of Boudhanath stupa and was considered holy after it turned into a pond.
• Escape the hustle and bustle, and visit the Taragaon park.
Taragaon park and its small museum are located 10-15min walk from the stupa. It is a great place to visit while in Boudhanath; and best of all, it’s free (see details below).
• Practice yoga at Padma Healing Arts.
There is one place in Boudha particularly famous for its (short) yoga retreats and classes. The owner, Pema, is well-known among the community, as one of the best yoga teachers in the Valley.
• Reconnect with your true self and experience Buddhism meditation.
Boudhanath is probably the best place in Kathmandu to learn Buddhist meditation. There are many centers dedicated to meditation around Boudhanath.
Did you know?
1• Boudhanath is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979.
2• Boudhanath is a very important sacred pilgrimage site for Buddhists from all over the world.
3• It is said that the stupa entombs the remains of the third Buddha of the Bhadrakalpa, “Kasyapa Buddha”, and a finger bone from the fourth and present Buddha “Siddharta Gautama Buddha”.
4• You always have to walk in a clockwise direction around the stupa, with the stupa being on your right side.
5• It is always interesting to understand the meaning of a structure of this kind before visiting it. Here are some basic information regarding the structure of Boudhanath:
• The pinnacle (at the top of the stupa) is the symbol of Mt. Sumeru, the King of Mountains.
• The umbrella (under the pinnacle) is the protector of the 3 jewels: Buddha, Dharma and Sangha.
• The lotus (under the umbrella) is the symbol of compassion and purity.
• The thirteen steps (under the lotus and above the big eyes) are the 13 steps to complete enlightenment.
• The two eyes looking from the 4 sides are the eyes of the Buddha, who sees everywhere.
• The nose is the symbol of Nirvana.
• The Harmika is the 8 noble paths.
• The dome is the symbol of universe.
• The Mandala is the mansion of Buddha.
6• Boudhanath hosts many festivals throughout the year, including the Losar festival (Tibetan New Year), Buddha Jayanti (a festival celebrating the life of Lord Buddha: his birth, enlightenment and death), and the birthday of the Dalai Lama.
7• The best time for visiting Boudhanath are mornings and evenings, as you can follow the pilgrims around the stupa. In the evening, during the sunset, the atmosphere is particularly mystical.
8• Combine your visit with Pashupatinath temple, another UNESCO World Heritage site. It is located near Boudhanath (approx. 20-30 min walk).
How to visit Boudhanath?
Boudhanath is one of the most popular attractions in Kathmandu; it is no surprise that the site is often crowded. To avoid the crowds, favor early mornings, late afternoons or evenings. Avoid Fridays and Saturdays.
There is no dress code to visit Boudhanath; however, try to dress modestly (particularly if you decide to visit one or more monasteries).
If you plan to visit Boudhanath, it is well worth it to combine your visit with Pashupatinath. You should count at least 4 hours to hit the highlights of Pashupatinath and Boudhanath. But if you want to make the most out of your visit, plan on spending the entire day.
How to get to Boudhanath?
If you are staying in the Boudha neighborhood, you can easily walk around.
Otherwise, you can get to Boudhanath:
- By taxi (around 400-500NPR from Thamel).
- By bus from Ratna Park or Jamal Bus Stand (around 25-30NPR). Ask the driver to stop at the main gate of Boudhanath.
- By Tootle, a Nepali app that allows you to get an easy ride inside Kathmandu by matching you with bikers who are on your way.
- By Pathao, same kind of app as above but working with cars as well.
Where to eat in Boudhanath?
Boudha is the perfect place to discover the local Tibetan and Sherpa food scene.
If your goal is to discover local food, the best (I think) is to avoid rooftops and explore the backstreets. For the best “Laphing”, a traditional Tibetan noodle dish, I highly recommend ‘CD Laphing center’. If you want to try the unique Sherpa food in Boudha, head to ‘Himalayan Sherpa Food House’ (located inside a small alley around the Stupa, next to Namaste Bead Handicrafts, near Himalayan Java) and order ‘Rikikur’, a delicious potato pancake, and ‘Rildok’, a traditional Sherpa soup. ‘Khawa Karpo Tasty Noodle Factory‘ is very famous for its freshly made noodles. They make some of the best keema noodles in Kathmandu.
If you want to know what and where to eat in Boudha, read my article about the top 22 must try food in Boudha with the exact location and price of each item.
Where to stay in Boudhanath?
Budget
If you are on a budget, favor a homestay instead of a hotel (particularly if you wish to immerse yourself in the local culture).
Mid-Range
There are many boutique hotels located near the stupa. Shambaling Boutique hotel is renowned for its warm hospitality.
Luxury
Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is definitely a great choice and within a short walking distance of Boudhanath stupa.
Focus on: Taragaon museum & its park near Boudhanath
Maybe because of the heavy traffic and the chaotic roads that are (always) under construction, most visitors stick to Boudhanath stupa and do not explore the rest of the area – They are definitely missing out.
Ten to fifteen minutes’ walk from Boudha, there is the charming Taragaon museum, located on the premises of Hyatt Regency. The museum is housed inside a former hotel and now displays a permanent collection and contemporary art exhibitions. The unique architecture of Taragaon is remarkable and this alone is well worth the visit! The place is also surprisingly serene considering the location. I love the peaceful park around the museum. It feels very nice to be surrounded by trees after wandering around Boudhanath. It’s truly a nice place to visit (perfect if you’re traveling with kids). A hidden gem!
BOUDHANATH STUPA
Price? 400NPR.
Where in Kathmandu?
When? Anytime of the day. But mornings and evenings are best as you can follow the pilgrims around the stupa.
TARAGAON MUSEUM
Price? Free.
Where in Kathmandu?
When? The museum is open Sunday to Friday from 10am to 5pm. However, the Taragaon park is open every day from 7:30am to 8:30pm.
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