Experience traditional Nepali life and local food as you walk through the streets of Thamel, the bazaars of Asan and Indra Chowk, historical places including Hindu temples, Buddhist stupas and monasteries, Kathmandu Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and many hidden Bahals.
Here’s my Kathmandu Heritage Walk itinerary with a video, a map and detailed step by step directions to help you navigate the labyrinth of winding streets and narrow alleyways in Kathmandu.
Table of Contents
Watch our Kathmandu Heritage Walk Video
Kathmandu Heritage Walk: Detailed Itinerary + Map
Here’s my self-guided Kathmandu Heritage itinerary. So that you can spend less time planning and more time enjoying Kathmandu.
Kathmandu Heritage Walk: The Map
Step 1 | Thamel – Tridevi Temples
First and foremost, I would suggest downloading the Pathao app so you can enjoy fair fixed taxi rates (bike or car).
Your visit starts at Thamel, in front of the Garden of Dreams. Thamel is the main tourist hub (and party hub) of Kathmandu; but what most travelers don’t know is that Thamel is also a historic district with a great number of beautiful landmarks, old Hindu temples and monuments to discover.
If you aren’t staying in Thamel, ask your car/ bike to stop in front of the Garden of Dreams. Of course, you can also take the microbus to Jamal bus stop (southeast border of Thamel) and walk up to Tridevi.
Jawalamai and Dakshinkali 
Manakamana 
Hanuman 
Dakshinkali, Jawalamai and Manakamana 
Tridevi temples
The Tridevi temple is located in front of the Garden of Dreams. In fact, it isn’t a temple but three temples. The first one is dedicated to Manakamana (the Goddess of Wisdom), the second one to Jawalamai (the Goddess of Flame), and the last one to Dakshinkali (the Goddess of Death, Time and Change).
Step 2 | Thamel – Chhwasal Ajima Sthan
When you exit Tridevi temples, turn left, and continue straight to Narsingh chowk. Take the right turn and on your right, you’ll see a multitude of statues (shrines) aligned.
Ajimas 
Chhwasal Ajima Sthan is a courtyard with a lot of Hindu shrines. This place is literally in plain sight but it seems that nobody quite notices it. The main temple is located behind the courtyard.
Step 3 | Thamel – Maitripur Mahavihar (Kwa Bahal)
Head back to the main road and turn left. Continue straight on Thamel Marg. At one point, you will cross a small stupa with a black head and pinnacle. In front of this stupa, there is a (very) small alleyway. This is where you need to go. Continue straight, and on your left, you’ll find the entrance of Maitripur Mahavihar.
Maitripur Mahavihar is not mentioned in any guidebooks that I know of. Still worth a visit though. It is the oldest Buddhist monastery in Thamel dating back to the 5th century.
Step 4 | Thamel – Thanhity Chowk
Go back to Thamel Marg and turn right.
Continue straight to Thanhity Chowk until you reach the Dharmadhaatu stupa.
Built by a Tibetan trader, the Dharmadhaatu stupa date back to the 15th century. It is said that the stupa was built to hide a hiti (traditional Newari fountain) after alluvial gold was found coming out from the waterspout.
Step 5 | Thamel – Kathesimbu Stupa (Shree Gha)
Head south of the chowk. Turn right and then, turn immediately left. Continue straight. The small alley leading to Kathesimbu will be on your right.
The Kathesimbu stupa is a small replica of Swayambhu stupa. It was built around 1650; but historians found that the original stupa was probably built way before, during the Licchavi era (400 – 750 CE). The legend said the stupa has flown from Kashmir, India to its present location in Central Kathmandu, between Thamel and Kathmandu Durbar Square. It is believed that the stupa contains the skull of Sariputra, the foremost disciple of Lord Buddha.
There is a beautiful Buddhist Monastery inside the Baha (courtyard), the Drubgon Jangchup Choeling. This square is also a great place to taste local authentic Nepali food.
Step 6 | Asan Chowk – Ikhu Narayan Temple, Annapurna Temple and the Stone Fish
When you exit Kathesimbu, turn right and continue straight until you reach the beautiful Ikha Narayan temple, dedicated to Vishnu.
Turn left and continue straight onto Asan Bazar.
The chaotic Asan Bazar is Kathmandu’s main local market and the busiest chowk in all Kathmandu. ‘Asan Bazar’ is definitely the best place to buy souvenirs and handicrafts, but also authentic local food, spices, fabrics, jewelry and so much more.
The main temple of Asan Chowk is the beautiful three-storey Annapurna temple, dedicated to Annapurna, the Goddess of Abundance. The temple is also known as Asan Maju Ajima, the grandmother Goddess of Asan.
In front of the Annapurna temple, you’ll find the Ganesh temple. And just beside lies a curiosity: a stone fish.
The stone fish, known as Nyalon, is located at the center of the chowk, on a pedestal. The legend says that one day, a fish fell from the sky and people were asking where it fell and the people answered: “Ansaa”; hence the name of the Chowk: ‘Asan’.
Step 7 | Asan Chowk – Breakfast
Asan is a wonderful place for breakfast. There, you’ll find many street vendors. Behind the Ganesh temple, there is a shop selling Jeri, Gwaramari and Malpua.
Gwaramari is a traditional Newari round bread that is crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. Jeri is an orange deep-fried sweet in a pretzel shape. In Nepal, locals eat Jeri with a soft thin bread called ‘Swari’ and a cup of milk tea, especially for breakfast. Malpua is a delicious pancake deep-fried in sugar syrup.
Step 8 | Indra Chowk – Jana Bahal & Seto Machhendranath Temple
Indra Chowk is located just after Asan Chowk. From Asan, you just have to continue south on Siddhidas Marg towards Indra Chowk.
After you pass the three storey Luchubhulu Agima temple, the entrance of Jana Bahal and the Seto Machhendranath temple will be on your right.
Built in the 10th century, the Seto Machhendranath is worshiped by both Hindus and Buddhists. For Buddhists, Seto (meaning ‘White’ in Nepali) Machhendranath is an incarnation of Avalokiteshwor and for Hindus, he’s the God of rain. You can see the white statue of Seto Machhendranath inside the temple. The idol is taken out of the temple during the chariot festival of Seto Machhendranath (around March-April).
Step 9 | Indra Chowk – Akash Bhairab Temple
Exit Seto Machhendranath temple and go back to the main street. Turn right and continue on Indra Chowk. You’ll arrive at the main intersection of Indra Chowk and you’ll see in front, the Akash Bhairab temple.
The Akash Bhairav temple is a beautiful bronze and gold temple dedicated to Akash Bhairav, God of the Sky, another form of Bhairava. It is believed that the Akash Bhairav temple was the palace of the first King of Nepal, King Yalambar, around 3,100-3,500 years ago.
The head of Akash Bhairav is taken out of the temple once a year and blessed by the Living Goddess Kumari during the festival of Indra Jatra.
Step 10 | Indra Chowk – Lassi
There are many vendors selling Lassi in Indra Chowk. On the right corner of the temple, there is a shop named ‘Indra Chowk Lassi Bhandar’, this shop is extremely famous among locals, and it is always busy, be it in summer or winter, during hot, cold or rainy days.
Lassi is a traditional sweet curd / yoghurt smoothie from India. The Lassi in Kathmandu is usually mixed with khuwa, raisins, cashews and / or almonds. The Lassi in Indra Chowk is definitely the best in Kathmandu.
Step 11 | New Road – Tip Top Sweets
Instead of heading towards Kathmandu Durbar Square, take the left to enter New Road (Sukra Path on Google Maps). Stay on the right side of the road. Tip Top Sweets isn’t easy to find. You’ll have to look for Tip Top Tailors and take a very narrow alley to reach the famous Tip Top Sweets.
Kachori Chaat 
Samosas
Tip Top Sweets is particularly famous for its Samosa (a triangular deep-fried pastry filled with spicy potatoes, peas, onions and other ingredients) and Samosa Chaat (a Samosa crushed and mixed with many ingredients such as chana masala, dahi (curd), chilli, onions, tomatoes, achaar, spices, …). Kachori Chaat (a spicy deep-fried puffed pastry filled with lentils, crushed and mixed with many ingredients such as dahi (curd), chilli, onions, tomatoes, achaar, spices, …) is also worth the try.
Step 12 | Makhan Tole – Chatpate
When you exit Tip Top Sweets, turn left, and then take the street on your left towards Kathmandu Durbar Square. Turn right on Siddhidas Marg (like if you walked back towards Indra Chowk). Continue straight until you reach Ganesh Arcade. Turn left at Ganesh Arcade’s. Continue straight and on your right, you’ll see a very narrow alley with a red arrow. Enter and you’ll find a small local square famous for its chatpate.
Chatpate is one of my favorite street food dishes in Kathmandu. It is a mixture of puffed rice, waiwai (instant noodles), peas, herbs, spices, peanuts, tomatoes, cucumber, onions, potatoes, lemon, chili, and other ingredients.
Step 13 | Itum Bahal
Go back towards Kathmandu Durbar Square and turn left on Layaku Marg. You’ll pass the colorful Mahendreshwar temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Take the right street (Makha Mahadev Galli) located right after the temple. At the end of the street, turn left and immediately right. At the end of this alley, take the right turn. Follow the path and turn left to reach Itum Bahal. It’s a real maze, so if you need, you can watch my video above for exact directions. You can also ask the local shops nearby if you get lost. You will see a small stupa. On your left, you’ll find four courtyards: Bakunani, Itum Bahal, Taranani, and Sasunani.
Itum Bahal is one of the oldest Buddhist monastery courtyards in Kathmandu (Bahal means ‘courtyard’ in Nepali). It is said that Itum Bahal was built in the 11th century. It is quite an abode of peace and tranquility in the middle of the chaos of Kathmandu. The space is full of bahas, nanies and chukas.
Step 14 | Yetkha Bahal
When you exit Itum Bahal from the main entrance, turn right and continue on Chokachen Galli. You’ll find the entrance of Yetkha Bahal at the end of the street.
Yetkha Bahal is probably the most underrated Bahal of Kathmandu. The Yetkha courtyard is really large and the stupa at its center is impressive. It is said that the building behind the stupa dates back to the 12th century.
Even though it is very near from Kathmandu Durbar Square, Yetkha Bahal is a peaceful abode in the middle of Kathmandu’s chaos. It is truly a shame that not many people come visit. Although not much mentioned in tourist guides, the Bahals deserve to be visited as they are part of the history and have a great cultural importance until now. If you want to experience Kathmandu’s heritage, do not skip the Bahals as it is there that you can really witness the local lifestyle and step back in time.
Step 15 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Taleju Temple
When you exit Yetkha Bahal, turn right and then, turn left on Kampukot Marg. The street will lead you to Kathmandu Durbar Square entrance.
Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as “Basantapur Durbar Square”, is one of the capital’s most visited landmarks. The site has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. It is where the Malla and Shah kings were once crowned and from where they ruled the country from 1768 (when Kathmandu became the capital city of Nepal) until 1896 (when the royal residence moved to the Narayanhiti Palace). It is believed that the construction of the Durbar Square dates back to the Licchavi era, around the 3rd century. But the major temples, buildings and monuments were built by the Malla kings between the 13thand 18th centuries.
The entrance fee to access the Kathmandu Durbar Square is 1,000NPR (approximately 10USD).
The first temple you’ll probably notice when you enter the Durbar Square is the Taleju Bhawani temple.
Completed in 1564, the Taleju temple is named after the Goddess Taleju Bhawani, the Royal deity of the Malla Kings. Taleju Bhawani is one of the most beautiful temples in Kathmandu Durbar Square, and it is still standing today. Unfortunately, the temple is not open to the public. Hindus can visit the temple once a year on the ninth day of Dashain; non-hindus are not allowed inside the temple and can only observe the temple from outside.
Step 16 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Kaal Bhairav
I won’t mention all the temples on Kathmandu Durbar Square in this article, but the main highlights. If you wish to know more about Kathmandu Durbar Square, read my Kathmandu Durbar Square Guide.
While walking on the main lane, you’ll notice a strange sculpture on your left: Kaal Bhairav.
The large sculpture of Kaal Bhairav, the fierce form of Lord Shiva, was sculpted during the 5th or 6th century and later rediscovered in the 17th century. During the reign of King Pratap Malla, this statue was installed to serve as a supreme court. It was believed for a long time that people who lied in front of the statue would die. So, suspects were brought in front of the fearsome Kaal Bhairav to speak the truth.
Step 17 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Jagannath Temple
Continue to walk on the main lane, you’ll see the Giant Drums on your right and the Jagannath temple on your left.
The Jagannath temple is one of the oldest temples in Kathmandu Durbar Square (probably dating back to 1563). The temple is mostly famous for its erotic carvings. The large platform in front of the temple is a popular spot where visitors (tourists and locals alike) feed pigeons. The King Pratap Malla’s column was repaired and now stands in front of the two-storey temple. The Temple is under restoration (as of December 2021).
Step 18 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Sweta Bhairav
In front of the Jagannath temple, you’ll see Sweta Bhairav.
Sweta Bhairava represents the terrifying form of Lord Shiva. It was installed inside the Durbar square in 1795, during the reign of King Rana Bahadur Shah. The mask is kept hidden behind a wooden curtain during the year and taken out only during the festival of Indra Jatra in September.
Step 19 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Krishna Temple (Chasin Dega)
On the right of Sweta Bhairab, you’ll see Krishna temple, also known as Chasin Dega.
Chasin Dega is an octagonal temple dedicated to Lord Krishna and his two wives, Rukmini and Satyabhama. The temple was built in 1649 by King Pratap Malla in memory of his two queens.
Step 20 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Museum
On the left of Sweta Bhairab, there is the entrance of the old Royal Palace and Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Museum.
A red statue of the Hindu Monkey God Hanuman is located at the entrance of the Hanuman Royal Palace (“Dhoka” means door in Nepali, hence the name ‘Hanuman Dhoka’), which is now the entry gate of the Hanuman Dhoka Museum. The statue was installed at the entrance of the palace in 1672 during the reign of King Pratap Malla.
Nasal Chowk is the courtyard of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace (and also from where you enter to the museum). It is where the coronations of the Nepali Kings were held. Although Hanuman Dhoka wasn’t the royal residence after 1896, the coronations of the Kings of Nepal (including King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah in 1975 and King Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah in 2001) continued to be held in Nasal Chowk until the end of the Monarchy in 2008.
Located inside the Hanuman Dhoka Palace, the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum closed after the 2015 Earthquake; even though the Palace was made open to visitors later on, some areas are still closed to the public. However, the Hanuman Dhoka museum (also known as the Tribhuvan Museum) is worth a visit; it houses artifacts related to the Nepalese monarchy and the entrance is included in your Kathmandu Durbar Square ticket.
No photos are allowed inside the museum (inside per say; you can still take photos of the chowks and garden).
Step 21 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Shiva Parvati Temple
When you exit the museum, turn right after Sweta Bhairab to continue your stroll. The temple just right after the Giant Bell is the Shiva Parvati temple.
The Shiva Parvati Temple is a stunning temple dedicated to Shiva and his wife, Parvati. It was built in the late 18th century during the reign of King Rana Bahadur Shah, grand-son of Prithvi Narayan Shah. The temple is easily recognizable by its two wooden figures of Shiva and Parvati looking out from the open central window on the first floor.
Step 22 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Gaddi Baithak
On the left side, you can see a massive white building. This is Gaddi Baithak.
Gaddi Baithak is a white neo-classical building that was built in 1908 by Rana Prime Minister Chandra Shamsher. No entrance is currently allowed inside the building. But it is said that guided tours will be available soon and the ground floor will house a museum.
Step 23 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Kumari Ghar
On the right side (when facing Gaddi Baithak), you’ll see the entrance to the Kumari Ghar.
The Kumari Ghar is the house of the Living Goddess Kumari, incarnation of Goddess Taleju. Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur have each their own Kumaris, the Kumari of Kathmandu Durbar Square (the Royal Kumari) being the most important of them.
The tradition of Kumari officially started in 1757 during the reign of King Jayaprakash Malla. But the tradition might have started before, in the 16th century during the reign of King Trailokya Malla. The legend says that the spirit of Goddess Taleju is incarnated as a little girl among the Newar Shakya caste. It is believed that the Kumaris have the Goddess living within them until they reach puberty. Then, the Goddess vacates the Kumari’s body, the little girl returns to the civil life and a new Kumari must be selected. The selection process is made by the highest priests. The Kumari is chosen after a special ritual called ‘Battis Lakshanas’ (‘the 32 attributes of perfection’).
The Kumari lives in the Kumari Ghar with her caretakers and only goes outside during some religious festivals in Kathmandu. Although she sometimes leaves her palace, her feet never touch the ground when she is outside. She cannot have contact with others and she’s only allowed to talk with her family and her caretakers.
We advise you to visit the inner courtyard of Kumari Ghar in the morning (less crowds). The Living Goddess Kumari shows herself at the central window of the Kumari Ghar between 9am and 11am and around 4pm. Taking a photo is strictly forbidden, but you might be able to get a blessing if you’re lucky. You can also see the Kumari outside of her palace during the festival Indra Jatra.
Step 24 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Basantapur square
When you exit Kumari Ghar, turn right and you’ll see Basantapur Square.
A large open market occupies the Basantapur square. There, you will find a large selection of antique, jewelry and handicraft products.
Step 25 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Kasthamandap
Go back towards Kumari Ghar and continue straight. You’ll see Kasthmandap in front of you. Totally destroyed by the 2015 Earthquake, it is now rebuilt.
Kasthamandap isn’t a temple; it is a public wood pavilion and pilgrim shelter with a shrine of Gorakshanath inside. It was built with the wood of a single sal tree around the 12th century. The city of Kathmandu is named after this building.
Step 26 | Kathmandu Durbar Square – Chatamari, Anda Keema, Sekuwa or Momo
There are many foods to try near Kasthamandap.
Watch my Kathmandu food tour video
- Chatamari: It is known as the Newari pizza. However, the one in Basantapur is like a crepe or galette (galettes are the salty version of French crepes). The base of Chatamaris is made with rice flour and can come with different toppings; you can usually order: Veg Chatamari, Egg Chatamari, Keema (minced meat, usually Buff) Chatamari or Mixed Chatamari. Chatamari Chen is extremely popular among locals in Kathmandu. They serve mouthwatering Chatamaris (crepe style). This place isn’t easy to find, but you can ask any shops around Kasthamandap and they will give you the exact directions.
- Anda Keema: It is also a Newari dish. ‘Anda’ means ‘egg’ in Nepali, and Keema is minced meat. But it isn’t the regular ‘Anda Keema’ omelet you’ll be served here. The Newari Anda Keema is a delicious steamed egg served in a small bowl with keema under the egg and curry on top. Simple and yet, very delicious. A small Khaja Ghar located near Kasthamandap, in Basantapur, serves amazing Anda Keema.
- Aloo Paratha: It is a roti (flatbread) stuffed with potatoes and spices (‘aloo’ means ‘potato’ and a ‘paratha’ is a flatbread). It is originally from India but it is a very common dish in Nepal as well. The Khaja Ghar located near Kasthamandap, in Basantapur, next the shop where they serve Anda Keema, serves very tasty Aloo Paratha.
- Sekuwa: It is my favorite Newari dish. It is a traditional barbecued-style meat (chicken, buff, pork or mutton) marinated in spices and roasted directly over open fire. It is one of the most famous street food dishes in Kathmandu. Many vendors sell grilled meat skewers in the streets of Basantapur, in Kathmandu. Aunty’s Sekuwa Corner serves some of the best Sekuwas (chicken and buff) I’ve had in Kathmandu.
- Momo: It’s Nepali-style steamed dumplings that share similarities with the Chinese Jiaozi, Georgian khinkali, or Japanese Gyoza. Narayan Dai ko Masangalli ko famous Momo, near Kathmandu Durbar Square, is a very famous place for momos (Buff momos and Cheese Veg Momos). It is usually very crowded. The original outlet located in Gaushala serves momos since 1962.
Step 27 | Te Bahal
Take the Layaku Marg road. At the roundabout, continue straight onto Naya Sadak. You will pass the nearby Bhugol Park. Then, you’ll have to turn right and take the first street (Pako Sadak). At this point, it becomes a real maze to join Te Bahal. Continue straight and turn right at the end of the small alley. You’ll finally arrive at Te Bahal.
Te Bahal is a very large Bahal, compared to all the Bahals visited during this tour. It is said to be the largest Bahal in Kathmandu. The main temple in Te Bahal is the Sankata temple, dedicated to Goddess Sankata, worshiped by both Hindus and Buddhists. You are free to enter and visit the temple.
Final Tips
• Visit the Kathmandu Durbar Square in the morning when there are less crowds; you’ll have a way more authentic experience. Avoid the Fridays and Saturdays.
• Between 9am and 11am and around 4pm, you can see the Living Goddess Kumari showing herself for a short time at the central window of the Kumari Ghar. Taking a photo is strictly forbidden, but you might be able to get a blessing if you’re lucky.
• The ticket is only available one day. However, you can go the tourist center located near Kumari Ghar and convert your ticket to a Visitor Pass valid for the duration of your visa (it is free and you just need your entrance ticket, your passport and a ID photo).
• If you aren’t staying in Thamel, download Tootle, a Nepali app that allows you to get an easy ride inside Kathmandu by matching you with bikers who are on your way, or Pathao, same kind of app as above but working with cars as well.
For more travel inspiration in Nepal, visit my Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/paris_kathmandu/
Very good information about travel in Kathmandu