Last Updated: February 1, 2021
Welcome to Saint-Germain-des-Prés!
Located in the 6th arrondissement, on the left bank (“rive gauche”) of the Seine river, Saint-Germain-des-Prés is known for being the most artistic neighborhood of the capital.
Want to experience the neighborhood like a local? Don’t worry, I got you covered! Here’s my detailed self-guided Saint-Germain-des-Prés itinerary. Enjoy your walk!
Step 1- Pont des Arts
Start by taking the Parisian Metro (Metro Line 7) and exit at “Pont-Neuf station” (or take the line 1 to “Louvre-Rivoli”). Head west and walk along the Seine river on Quai du Louvre. Continue on Quai François Mitterrand and turn left on the beautiful pedestrian bridge “Pont des arts”.
The Pont des Arts, formerly known as the ‘Love Lock Bridge’ in Paris, is a pedestrian bridge which crosses the Seine river and links the Institute de France to the Louvre. It was the first metallic bridge built in Paris (between 1801 and 1804). The Pont des Arts is registered as a national historic monument since 1975. In 1979, the bridge collapsed and was only rebuilt between 1981 and 1984. The Pont des Arts is considered as the most romantic bridge in Paris (little less since the love locks were removed from the bridge in 2015).
Before 2015, it was known as the ‘Love Lock Bridge’ because tourists started to attach padlocks to the bridge in 2008. Unfortunately, in June 2014, the bridge was damaged and a part where the love locks were attached collapsed. Now, it is a bridge without locks. But it has kept its charming atmosphere. In spring – summer, you can see many painters capturing the beauty of the surroundings from this bridge. You can also find people picnicking on the Pont des Arts.
Step 2- Institut de France
Cross the bridge and you’ll arrive on Quai de Conti, in front of the magnificent “Institut de France”.
Created in 1795, the impressive ‘Institut de France’ is a French institution consisting of 5 academies: the Académie Française (French language Academy) founded in 1635 by Cardinal Richelieu, the Académie des Beaux-Arts (Academy of Fine Arts) founded between 1648 and 1671, the Académie des sciences morales et politiques (Academy of Moral and Political sciences) founded in 1795 at the same time as the Institute, the Académie des sciences (Academy of Science) founded in 1666, and the Académie des inscriptions et belles-lettres (Academy of Humanities) founded in 1663.
Note that the Mazarine Library, the oldest public library in France, is located on the premises of the Institute, and is open to the public Monday to Saturday from 10am to 6pm.
Step 3- Quai Malaquais
Leaving the Institut de France behind you, turn left on “Quai Malaquais”. You’ll meet many Parisian “bouquinistes” (open-air booksellers) with their picturesque green boxes. They are installed along the banks of the Seine river: on the right bank, from Pont Marie to Quai du Louvre, and on the left bank, from Quai de la Tournelle to Quai Voltaire. Perpetuating a centuries-old tradition, the ‘bouquinistes’ are and remain an important part of Paris’ cultural heritage.
Step 4- Serge Gainsbourg’s House & The National School of Fine Arts
If you wish to do a detour to Serge Gainsbourg’s house, the iconic French singer, continue on Quai Malaquais and turn left on Rue des Saints-Peres. Continue on Rue des Saints-Peres and turn right onto Rue Verneuil (second street on your right). The house is located at No.5 bis, rue de Verneuil.
Serge Gainsbourg was a very popular French singer who died in 1991; he’s known as the most unconventional and provocative French singer and one of the most important artists of his time.
If you aren’t a fan of Gainsbourg, neither a fan of street art, head toward Rue Bonaparte from Quai Malaquais and go straight on until you reach the No.14, rue Bonaparte. The Ecole Nationale des Beaux-Arts (National School of Fine Arts) will be on your right.
The Ecole Nationale des Beaux-Arts was founded in 1817. Among its famous students and professors, there were Eugène Delacroix, Auguste Renoir, Claude Monet and Bernard Buffet. The school possesses 450,000 artworks. Expositions and guided visits (quite rare!) allow visitors to discover the prestigious Ecole des Beaux-Arts. They are planning to open a museum with some of the former students’ artworks on the premises of the school.
Step 5- Rue de Seine
Head south on Rue Bonaparte. On your left, you’ll find the famous “Ladurée” macaron shop (No.21, rue Bonaparte). You can indulge in some delicious macarons before continuing your visit.
Turn left on Rue Jacob and go straight on until you reach Rue de Seine. Then, turn right on Rue de Seine and continue toward the Boulevard Saint-Germain.
The street “Rue de Seine” was once a canal that was linked to the Seine river, located just outside the wall of Philip II Augustus. This street is now particularly renowned for its art galleries. It is also there that you can find the historical “Hotel La Louisiane” at No. 60 rue de Seine, a hotel where many American jazz artists, such as Miles Davis and John Coltrane, used to stay in the 50-60s.
Step 6- Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Once you’ve arrived on Boulevard Saint-Germain, turn right and you’ll find the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés on your right.
The Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the oldest church in Paris. The original abbey was founded in the 6th century by the son of Clovis I, King Childebert I, after his return from Spain with the stole of Saint Vincent. The Church was achieved and consecrated by the Bishop of Paris, Saint Germain; hence, the name of the church.
The Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés was the burial place of the Merovingian Kings. After being destroyed by the Normans at least 3 times in the 9th century, the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés was rebuilt and enlarged from the 10th century to the 13th century. Luckily, parts of some structures still remain from the 6th century. The Church was attacked and destroyed many times but always rebuilt. The restoration work of the Church Saint-Germain-des-Prés began in 2013 and was achieved in 2020.
Do not forget to look up, the beautiful painted ceiling and pillars are sumptuous and unique. L’Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés is, without a doubt, a must-see. A true hidden gem that is not often visited by tourists, nor locals.
Step 7- The Iconic Cafés
Just beside the church, you’ll find 3 iconic cafés-restaurants. The cafés and restaurants of Saint-Germain-des-Prés have contributed to Saint-Germain-des-Prés’ history and reputation. It is where famous artists, writers and political figures spent the majority of their time. A coffee (or a lunch) at one of these cafés should be experienced at least once.
The most famous café of Saint-Germain-des-Prés,“Les Deux Magots”, opened in 1885. Among its most famous regular clients, there were Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Ernest Hemingway, Picasso, James Joyce and James Baldwin. Les Deux Magots’ specialties are the coffee served from the pot and the hot chocolate.
Very famous (and touristy as well), “Café de Flore” opened in 1887, right after its rival “Les Deux Magots”. Its most regular clients were also Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, but also Apollinaire, Jacques Prévert, Jane Fonda, Sonia Rykiel and Paolo Coelho.
Last but not least, “Brasserie Lipp” was founded in 1880. The founder of the brasserie, Leonard Lipp, left his native home when it became german. Verlaine and Apollinaire were some of the restaurant’s most regular clients. The specialty of the house was, and still is, the “choucroute”, a traditional dish from Alsace.
Step 8- Place Furstenberg & Eugène Delacroix Museum
Head back toward the church and turn left on Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Turn right on Rue de l’Abbaye and turn left on Rue de Furstenberg. Here, you’ll find the museum Eugène Delacroix.
The museum Eugène Delacroix is dedicated to the Romantic French painter Eugène Delacroix (1798-1863), famous for his painting « Liberty leading the People » (which you cannot see inside this museum but in the Louvre museum). The museum is located inside the last apartment of Delacroix (which also served as his art studio) that he occupied until his death, from December 1857 to August 1863. The museum possesses paintings, drawings, prints, writings and objects belonging to the artist.
However, if you aren’t a fan of museums, you don’t have to visit Eugène Delacroix museum to enjoy the beautiful Place de Furstenberg. This very discreet and charming square is probably the most romantic square in Paris and just for that, it is worth visiting.
Step 9- Rue de Buci
Head back toward Rue de l’Abbaye and turn left. Cross Rue Cardinale and Rue de l’Echaudé, continue on Rue de Bourbon le Château and you’ll arrive on the vibrant Rue de Buci. This street is where Jean-Baptiste Poquelin choose his stage name “Molière”.
On Rue de Buci, turn left, cross the rue de Seine and go straight on. On your left, you’ll find the famous “Taschen bookshop” at No.2, rue de Buci.
Step 10- Cour du Commerce Saint-André
Continue on Rue de Buci and cross Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie. Continue on Rue Saint-André des Arts. On Rue Saint-André des Arts, you’ll find a small hidden passageway on your right, la Cour du Commerce Saint-André.
La Cour du Commerce Saint-André is where the Guillotine prototype was created and tested (on a sheep). Here, you’ll find ‘Le Procope’, the oldest café-restaurant in Paris. You can find Napoleon’s hat on display inside the restaurant. The story says that when he was 15 years-old, Napoleon left his hat as a guarantee to pay his coffee later. As you can guess, he never paid his debt. Depending on the time of your visit, you can either eat at the Procope (try the Coq au Vin!) or stop for a hot chocolate at ‘Un dimanche à Paris’.
Step 11- Church Saint-Sulpice
Head back toward Boulevard Saint-Germain and cross the boulevard toward Carrefour de l’Odéon. Continue on Rue de Condé and turn right on Rue Saint-Sulpice. Go straight on until you reach the Place Saint-Sulpice and the Church Saint-Sulpice (on your left).
The Church of Saint-Sulpice is the second largest church in Paris, after Notre-Dame. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries on the foundations of a former church dating from the 12th century, and is dedicated to Sulpitius the Pious, a 7th century bishop of Bourges and saint. In the 18th century, a gnomon was built inside the church to help determine the time of the Easter Equinoxes. Saint-Sulpice is where Victor Hugo married Adèle Foucher in 1822, where the Marquis de Sade and Charles Baudelaire were baptized and it is also where the funeral of former French President Jacques Chirac was held on September 30, 2019.
Interesting fact: If you look up when standing in front of the church, you will notice that the two front towers don’t have the same height. In fact, the construction was interrupted during the Revolution and the south tower was never finished.
Step 12- Place de l’Odéon
Head east on Rue Palatine and walk toward Rue Garanciere. Turn right on Rue Garanciere and go straight on until you reach Rue de Vaugirard. Turn left, go straight on and turn left on Rue Rotrou. Walk toward the Place de l’Odéon.
L’Odéon is one of France’s 6 national theaters. The theater was inaugurated in 1782 by Queen Marie-Antoinette herself and was originally supposed to host the Comédie française. It is a national historic monument since 1947.
Step 13- Jardin du Luxembourg
Head back toward Rue Vaugirard. Here, you’ll find the entrance to the splendid Jardin du Luxembourg. It is an absolute must-see that you cannot miss during your visit to Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
With its impeccably manicured lawns, colorful parterres, romantic statues, and magnificent tree-lined promenades, the Jardin du Luxembourg is, without doubt, the most beautiful garden in Paris. Covering 23 hectares, it is also one of the largest.
The Luco (nickname given by the locals to the Jardin du Luxembourg) is the perfect place for a break or a picnic; there are plenty of chairs available to sit on and relax. Even on busy days, there is always a peaceful atmosphere in the Luxembourg gardens. The Jardin du Luxembourg is mostly famous for its large octagonal pond (the ‘Grand Bassin’) and its Medici fountain. But, there are so many other things to see and do in the Luxembourg gardens. Click here to see my guide to the Luxembourg Gardens.
Step 14- Chez Georges
To end your self-guided tour with style, we advise you to spend the evening at one of the oldest bars of Saint-Germain, “Chez Georges”, an old bar opened since 1952 (No.11, rue des Canettes).
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