Last Updated: December 13, 2021
Located just a short walk from Thamel, the popular tourist hub in Kathmandu, Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as “Basantapur Durbar Square” or “Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square”, is one of the capital’s most visited landmarks. The site has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Its historical importance, beautiful Newari architecture and lively bazaars make it a fascinating place to visit.
With Patan Durbar Square and Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Kathmandu Durbar Square is one of the three Durbar Squares (“Durbar” means palace in Nepali) inside the Kathmandu Valley.
WHERE THE MALLA AND SHAH KINGS WERE ONCE CROWNED
Kathmandu Durbar Square is where the Malla and Shah kings were once crowned and from where they ruled the country from 1768 (when Kathmandu became the capital city of Nepal) until 1896 (when the royal residence moved to the Narayanhiti Palace). The name of Kathmandu comes from Kasthamandap, a 7th century building located in the Durbar Square (unfortunately, Kasthamandap was totally destroyed by the April 2015 Earthquake). It is believed that the construction of the Durbar Square dates back to the Licchavi era, around the 3rd century. But the major temples, buildings and monuments were built by the Malla kings between the 13th and 18th centuries.
The coronations of King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah in 1975 and King Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah in 2001 were held in Kathmandu Durbar Square, more precisely in Nasal Chowk.
Today, Kathmandu Durbar Square is still the place where are held many festivals, ceremonies and religious rituals of important significance.
It is true that Kathmandu Durbar Square suffered massive damages during the April 2015 earthquake. However, the UNESCO World Heritage Site remains majestic and impressive.
I was lucky enough to live nearby, and every visit to the Durbar made me love it more and more. In my opinion, the Durbar Square is a place you cannot miss if you are visiting Kathmandu.
Here’s my complete Kathmandu Durbar Square travel guide to help you plan your Nepal experience!
Table of Contents
What to see and what to do in Kathmandu Durbar Square?
The Kumari Ghar
It is one of the most famous buildings in Kathmandu, and probably the main reason people visit the Durbar Square.
The Kumari Ghar is the house of the Living Goddess Kumari, incarnation of Goddess Taleju. Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur have each their own Kumaris, the Kumari of Kathmandu Durbar Square (the Royal Kumari) being the most important of them.
The tradition of Kumari officially started in 1757 during the reign of King Jayaprakash Malla. But the tradition might have started before, in the 16th century during the reign of King Trailokya Malla. The legend says that the spirit of Goddess Taleju is incarnated as a little girl among the Newar Shakya caste. It is believed that the Kumaris have the Goddess living within them until they reach puberty. Then, the Goddess vacates the Kumari’s body, the little girl returns to the civil life and a new Kumari must be selected. The selection process is made by the highest priests. The Kumari is chosen after a special ritual called ‘Battis Lakshanas’ (‘the 32 attributes of perfection’).
The Kumari lives in the Kumari Ghar with her caretakers and only goes outside during some religious festivals in Kathmandu. Although she sometimes leaves her palace, her feet never touch the ground when she is outside. She cannot have contact with others and she’s only allowed to talk with her family and her caretakers.
We advise you to visit the inner courtyard of Kumari Ghar in the morning (less crowds). The Living Goddess Kumari shows herself at the central window of the Kumari Ghar between 9am and 11am and around 4pm. Taking a photo is strictly forbidden, but you might be able to get a blessing if you’re lucky. You can also see the Kumari outside of her palace during the festival Indra Jatra.
Shiva Parvati Temple
The Shiva Parvati Temple is a stunning temple dedicated to Shiva and his wife, Parvati. It was built in the late 18th century during the reign of King Rana Bahadur Shah, grand-son of Prithvi Narayan Shah. The temple is easily recognizable by its two wooden figures of Shiva and Parvati looking out from the open central window on the first floor.
Taleju Bhawani Temple
Completed in 1564, the Taleju temple is named after the Goddess Taleju Bhawani, the Royal deity of the Malla Kings. Taleju Bhawani is one of the most beautiful temples in Kathmandu Durbar Square, and it is still standing today. Unfortunately, the temple is not open to the public. Hindus can visit the temple once a year on the ninth day of Dashain; non-hindus are not allowed inside the temple and can only observe the temple from outside.
Kaal Bhairav
The large sculpture of Kaal Bhairav, the fierce form of Lord Shiva, was sculpted during the 5th or 6th century and later rediscovered in the 17th century. During the reign of King Pratap Malla, this statue was installed to serve as a supreme court. It was believed for a long time that people who lied in front of the statue would die. So, suspects were brought in front of the fearsome Kaal Bhairav to speak the truth.
Sweta Bhairava
Sweta Bhairava represents the terrifying form of Lord Shiva. It was installed inside the Durbar square in 1795, during the reign of King Rana Bahadur Shah. The mask is kept hidden behind a wooden curtain during the year and taken out only during the festival of Indra Jatra in September.
Akash Bhairav Temple
The Akash Bhairav temple is a beautiful bronze and gold temple dedicated to Akash Bhairav, God of the Sky, another form of Bhairava. It is believed that the Akash Bhairav temple was the palace of the first King of Nepal, King Yalambar, around 3,100-3,500 years ago. The head of Akash Bhairav is taken out of the temple once a year and blessed by the Living Goddess Kumari during the festival of Indra Jatra.
Hanuman Dhoka statue
The red statue of the Hindu Monkey God Hanuman is located at the entrance of the Hanuman Royal Palace (“Dhoka” means door in Nepali, hence the name ‘Hanuman Dhoka’), which is now the entry gate of the Hanuman Dhoka Museum. The statue was installed at the entrance of the palace in 1672 during the reign of King Pratap Malla.
Nasal Chowk
Nasal Chowk is the courtyard of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace. It is where the coronations of the Nepali Kings were held. Although Hanuman Dhoka wasn’t the royal residence after 1896, the coronations of the Kings of Nepal (including King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah in 1975 and King Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah in 2001) continued to be held in Nasal Chowk until the end of the Monarchy in 2008.
Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum
Located inside the Hanuman Dhoka Palace, the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum closed after the 2015 Earthquake; even though the Palace was made open to visitors later on, some areas are still closed to the public. However, the Hanuman Dhoka museum (also known as the Tribhuvan Museum) is worth a visit; it houses artifacts related to the Nepalese monarchy and the entrance is included in your Kathmandu Durbar Square ticket.
Jagannath temple
The Jagannath temple is one of the oldest temples in Kathmandu Durbar Square (probably dating back to 1563). The temple is mostly famous for its erotic carvings. The large platform in front of the temple is a popular spot where visitors (tourists and locals alike) feed pigeons. The King Pratap Malla’s column was repaired and now stands in front of the two-storey temple.
Chasin Dega
Also known as ‘Krishna temple’, Chasin Dega is an octagonal temple dedicated to Lord Krishna and his two wives, Rukmini and Satyabhama. The temple was built in 1649 by King Pratap Malla in memory of his two queens. Unfortunately, Chasin Dega was destroyed by the 2015 Earthquake. It is now fully rebuilt.
Kotilingeshwar Mahadev temple
The Kotilingeshwar Mahadev temple is a dome-style temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The stone temple was built in the 16th century by King Mahendra Malla.
Mahendreshwar temple
The Mahendreshwar temple is another small temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The beautiful temple was built in 1561 during the reign of Mahendra Malla.
Giant drums & Big Bell
During the reign of Rana Bahadur Shah, two giant drums and a huge bronze bell were used during the worshipping ritual of the Goddess Taleju. These drums were also used as an alarm and to make important announcements. They are now displayed on a platform near Krishna temple.
Gaddi Baithak
Gaddi Baithak is a white neo-classical building that was built in 1908 by Rana Prime Minister Chandra Shamsher. The building was damaged by the April 2015 Earthquake but is now restored. No entrance is currently allowed inside the building. But it is said that guided tours will be available soon and the ground floor will house a museum.
Kasthamandap
Totally destroyed by the 2015 Earthquake, Kasthamandap is now rebuilt.
Kasthamandap isn’t a temple; it is a public wood pavilion and pilgrim shelter with a shrine of Gorakshanath inside. It was built with the wood of a single sal tree around the 12th century. The city of Kathmandu is named after this building.
Basantapur square
A large open market occupies the Basantapur square. There, you will find a large selection of antique, jewelry and handicraft products.
Freak Street
If you visit Kathmandu Durbar Square, you absolutely have to explore Freak Street (now ‘Jhochhen Tole’). The former hippie street was famous in the 60-70s when marijuana was still legal in Nepal. Located south of Kathmandu Durbar Square, Freak street has changed a lot but some shops are still worth visiting (including the notable ‘Snowman café’ opened since 1965 and serving delicious apple crumble!).
Asan, Kathmandu’s local market
The iconic local market ‘Asan’ is definitely the best place to buy souvenirs and handicrafts, but also authentic local food, spices, fabrics, jewelry and so much more.
Cultural Guided tours
Although it isn’t necessary to get a guide to visit some sites of Kathmandu, Kathmandu Durbar Square is among the places where it is worth hiring a guide. Do not take a guide once there, as it is difficult to figure out who’s legitimate and who isn’t.
Visiting alone not knowing what is what and the specific history behind each monument and temple may not worth the visit (and the price to enter).
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Watch our Kathmandu Asan to Freak Street via Kathmandu Durbar Square Video
Main Festival of Kathmandu Durbar Square: Indra Jatra
Indra Jatra, also known as ‘Yenya Punhi’, is the largest and most important street festival in Kathmandu. The festival is dedicated to Indra, King of Heaven and God of rain.
The legend says that Indra’s mother wanted to perform a ritual in the Heaven, and she needed a particular flower (parijat) that can only be found in Kathmandu. She asked her son, Indra, to go to Earth and bring the special flowers. Indra took the appearance of a normal human being and went to Earth with his white elephant to pluck flowers in Kathmandu for his mother. The people of Kathmandu, not recognizing him as Indra, caught him thinking he was a common thief as he was plucking the Parijat flowers without asking permission. They tied him with ropes to a pole in the Maru Tole square. His mother, worried to not see her son coming back, went to Kathmandu looking for Indra. Local people recognized his mother and realized they made a mistake by capturing Indra. The local people negotiated the release of Indra against morning mists over the crops throughout the Autumn and Winter months to ensure good harvests.
The 8-day festival starts at Kathmandu Durbar Square with the erection of a very high wooden pole (the Linga). Many mask dances are performed during the festival. It is also during Indra Jatra that the chariot of the Living Goddess Kumari is pulled all over Kathmandu for three days. In fact, three chariots are pulled: the chariot of Kumari, the chariot of Bhairav and the chariot of Ganesh.
If you happen to visit Nepal during Indra Jatra (that usually falls in September), it is really worth extending your stay in Kathmandu to attend this festival.
Tips for visiting Kathmandu Durbar Square
• Visit the Kathmandu Durbar Square in the morning when there are less crowds; you’ll have a way more authentic experience.
• Between 9am and 11am and around 4pm, you can see the Living Goddess Kumari showing herself for a short time at the central window of the Kumari Ghar. Taking a photo is strictly forbidden, but you might be able to get a blessing if you’re lucky.
• If you really want to appreciate your visit, hire a guide beforehand or join a guided tour! Kathmandu Durbar Square is among the places where it is worth hiring a guide. Do not take a guide once there, as it is difficult to figure out who’s legitimate and who isn’t.
• The ticket is only available one day. However, you can go the tourist center located near Kumari Ghar and convert your ticket to a Visitor Pass valid for the duration of your visa (it is free and you just need your entrance ticket, your passport and a ID photo).
How to visit Kathmandu Durbar Square?
Located near the popular tourist hub Thamel, Kathmandu Durbar Square is one of the most visited places in Kathmandu. To avoid the crowds, favor early mornings. Avoid the Fridays and Saturdays.
It is well worth it to combine your visit with Swayambhunath (also known as the Monkey temple), as it is located not too far from Kathmandu Durbar Square. You should count at least 2 to 3 hours to hit the highlights of Kathmandu Durbar Square.
How to get to Kathmandu Durbar Square?
You can get to Kathmandu Durbar Square:
- On foot: Kathmandu Durbar Square is a short walk from Thamel (about 15-20mn walk). If you are staying in Thamel, you don’t need to take a taxi. Instead, walk from Thamel to Kathmandu durbar square via Asan and Freak Street.
- By taxi (if you aren’t staying in Thamel).
- By Tootle, a Nepali app that allows you to get an easy ride inside Kathmandu by matching you with bikers who are on your way.
- By Pathao, same kind of app as above but working with cars as well.
Where to eat in Kathmandu Durbar Square?
What’s fun about Kathmandu is the amazing food diversity the city has to offer. Kathmandu is an incredible foodie destination.
It can be quite overwhelming and difficult to enjoy the Kathmandu food scene if you don’t know what you’re looking for and most importantly, where to look.
Read my Kathmandu food guide and find out the 20 foods you absolutely must try in Kathmandu.
Where to stay near Kathmandu Durbar Square?
If you wish to stay near Kathmandu Durbar area, I suggest you to stay in Thamel, as it is a short walking distance from Kathmandu Durbar square.
Budget
If you are on a budget and/or wish to immerse yourself in the local culture, favor a homestay instead of a hotel. Otherwise, Maya Boutique Hotel (located in Thamel) is a great budget hotel.
Mid-Range
Also located in Thamel, Kathmandu Guest House (by KGH Group) is definitely one of the best mid-range hotels in the area.
Luxury
Yak and Yeti is a nice luxury hotel (and they have a private garden and a swimming pool); it is definitely a great choice and located near Kathmandu Durbar Square (20-25min walk).
Price? 1000NPR.
Where in Kathmandu?
When? The best time to visit Kathmandu Durbar Square is in the morning.
For more travel inspiration in Nepal, visit my Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/paris_kathmandu/
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Very complete article! Kathmandu Durbar Square was damaged by the earthquake but it is a fascinating place that is worth the visit. Thank you for your article!
Thanks. It is a very fascinating place to visit indeed.