Heading to Lyon and looking for ideas of things to see and do in the city in 3 days?
Located in the southeastern part of France at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, Lyon, also known as Lugdunum, capital city of the Three Gauls, is the food capital of the world. But not only! From culture-fueled trips to family-fun activities and immersive experiences, Lyon is a great city to visit with many things to see and explore.
Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998, Lyon is an incredible city buzzing with life. I consider this guide as a ‘local’s guide’; after all, Lyon is where I used to live for two years during my Master at the ‘University Jean Moulin Lyon 3’, and I spent quite some time exploring. I am coming back regularly to visit family & friends, and try to discover new spots.
The things I enjoy most in Lyon are, of course, the food, the beautiful architecture, the culture, but also the nightlife, the unique atmosphere and great outdoors located near the city. Whether you’re a foodie, a culture buff, a cocktail enthusiast or looking for family-friendly activities, Lyon has something for everyone.
This three-day itinerary will take you to many landmarks and attractions that makes Lyon the amazing place that it is; but I also want you to discover unique sights and hidden gems that will set you apart from the crowd. Within three days, I want you to taste the local culture and experience the best of Lyon like a local.
Here is my detailed 3-day itinerary in Lyon.
Table of Contents
Detailed Itinerary
Day 1: Fourvière, Vieux-Lyon and the Presqu’Ile
Itinerary Map
Fourvière Hill
Located in the western part of Lyon, the Fourvière Hill (‘La Colline de Fourvière’ in French) is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful districts in the city. Known as ‘the hill that prays’ ~ in contrast to its neighbor, the Croix-Rousse, the ‘hill that works’ ~, Fourvière is famous for its Basilica and its (many) stunning panoramic viewpoints over the city. With the Croix Rousse, the Vieux-Lyon and the Presqu’Ile, the Fourvière Hill is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998.
Start by taking the Metro (Metro Line D) and exit at the “Vieux Lyon station”. Take the Funicular (nicknamed ‘La Ficelle’ by the locals) direction ‘Fourvière’ to the top of the Fourvière Hill. The exit is located just in front of the ‘Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière’.
Consecrated in 1896, the ‘Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière’ is considered as the emblematic symbol of Lyon. Located at the very top of the Fourvière Hill, the Basilica was built as a tribute to the Virgin Mary, and does not belong to the Church nor the State but to the people of Lyon!
The Basilica possesses a unique Byzantine, Gothic and Romanesque architecture.
Entry to the basilica and the crypt is free, and volunteer guides offer free guided tours every day from April to November. There are also guided rooftop tours available to discover the hidden scenes of the Basilica, included St Michael’s terrace and the observatory tower. I highly recommend approaching the volunteers during your visit; they are really friendly (and patient!) and are happy to answer all your questions.
Don’t miss the sumptuous panoramic view overlooking the city from the esplanade located on the left side of the Basilica.
Head north toward the ‘Parc des Hauteurs’. On your way, do not miss Lyon’s little Eiffel Tower, which is a replica of the third tier of the real Eiffel Tower.
The Parc des Hauteurs connects the Basilica to the ‘Loyasse cemetery’ via the ‘Passerelle des Quatre Vents’. The Passerelle follows the former ‘route des Macchabées’, an old railway line that was used to transport coffins to the Loyasse cemetery. The Passerelle offers spectacular views of the Basilica, the Croix-Rousse, the Presqu’Ile and the Monts d’Or.
Continue toward the ‘Montée de la Sarra’, a former skiing slope. Walk through the ‘Jardin des Pivoines’, then head south to the Ancient Gallo-Roman theater via the Loyasse cemetery and the Parc de la Visitation.
Built by Augustus in 15 BC, the ‘Ancient Gallo Roman Theater of Fourvière’ could welcome more than 10,000 spectators. It is the oldest Gallo-Roman theater in France and one of the largest with Vienna and Autun. Every summer, the music festival ‘Les Nuits de Fourvière’ is held inside the Theater. Besides the Grand Theater, you’ll find the Odeon, a smaller theater which was used for music concerts.
After your visit, head back toward the Basilica esplanade and hike down to the Vieux Lyon through the ‘Jardin du Rosaire’. The Jardin du Rosaire is a 1,400-meter path that connects the Basilica to the Vieux Lyon.
Vieux-Lyon and its traboules
The Vieux Lyon (‘Old Lyon’) is the historical district of Lyon and dates back to the Medieval and Renaissance times. The pedestrian district is the perfect place for ‘flâner’ like we say in French (there is no equivalent word in English but understand that the Vieux Lyon is a very agreeable place to wander around and have a relaxing time).
The Vieux Lyon is characterized by its narrow cobblestone streets with many picturesque shops, bakeries and ‘bouchons’. Wait! What is that? A ‘bouchon’? A ‘bouchon’ is a typical restaurant where you can eat traditional specialties from the region.
The Vieux Lyon is also famous for its ‘traboules’. But what does the word ‘traboule’ mean? ‘Traboule’ comes from the verb ‘Trabouler’ (‘Transambulare’ in latin), which means ‘to pass through’. A ‘traboule’ is a narrow passageway consisting of 3 main elements: an alley, a main courtyard and another alley allowing inhabitants to pass secretly from one street to another quickly.
From the Jardin du Rosaire, continue your way down until you reach the famous Cathedral Saint-Jean.
Built between 1175 and 1480, the Cathedral Saint-Jean, also known as the ‘Lyon Cathedral’, stands out with its blend of roman and gothic architecture. One of its particularities is to possess a remarkable astronomical clock, which was supposedly built in 1379.
After your visit, head northeast and turn right on rue Saint-Etienne. You’ll find the ‘Jardin archéologique’ at rue des Estrées,on your right. This archeological garden consists of relics of monuments, some of them dating back to the 4th century; among the relics are the Saint-Etienne baptismal and the Sainte-Croix church.
Near the garden, you’ll find the famous ‘Maison du Chamarier’ (Chamarier’s house) at 37, rue Saint-Jean. The Chamarier was the equivalent of a Prefect of Police. In the interior courtyard, you can admire the frescoes, the unique spiral staircase and the splendid well.
Then, head to the ‘Maison des Avocats’ at 60, rue Saint-Jean. The ‘Maison des Avocats’ now houses the museum ‘Miniature and Cinema’. In the courtyard, you’ll find a beautiful golden statue of a lion.
No visit to the Vieux Lyon would be complete without seeing at least one traboule. As mentioned above, ‘traboules’ are narrow pedestrian passageways through buildings, allowing people to go from one street to another. During your visit, try to stay discreet; most of the places you will be passing through are private homes. One of the most famous traboules is the ‘Long Traboule’ at 54, rue Saint-Jean / 27, rue du Boeuf (it is the longest traboule in Vieux Lyon). This ‘Longue Traboule’ goes through four buildings and crosses four interior courtyards. Another famous traboule is the gorgeous traboule ‘la Tour rose’, also known as ‘la Maison du Crible’, located at 16, rue du Boeuf, probably the most beautiful traboule in Lyon.
If you want to spend more time chasing the traboules of Lyon, I recommend this app: http://www.traboules-lyon.fr
From rue du Boeuf, head toward the banks of the Saône on Quai Romain Rolland via the Place Neuve Saint Jean, a very charming ‘street-square’.
On Quai Romain Rolland, you’ll find the ‘Palais des 24 colonnes’, an impressive courthouse with 24 Corinthian columns; the building really looks like a Greek temple.
In front of the courthouse, near the bridge ‘Passerelle du Palais de Justice’, you’ll see the statue ‘The Weight of Oneself’ by Elmgreen & Dragset; it is a sculpture of a man saving another man but if you look closer, you can see that the two men are identical, and the man is, in fact, saving himself.
Time for lunch. You can’t come to Lyon without eating at an authentic bouchon Lyonnais. After all, Lyon is the food capital of the world. We recommend the bouchon Lyonnais “La mère Léa”, one of the oldest restaurants in Lyon. The atmosphere is quite unique and the food is (more than) amazing. To get there, cross the bridge ‘Passerelle du Palais de Justice’ and turn right on Quai des Celestins. The restaurant is located at the number 11.
After lunch, time to discover the Presqu’Ile of Lyon.
Presqu’Ile
Located between the Saône and the Rhône rivers, the Presqu’Île (the ‘Peninsula’ in English) is a lovely (and lively!) area of Lyon to discover. The wonderful architecture and the vibrant atmosphere makes the Presqu’Île an absolute must-see in Lyon!
From “La mère Léa”, head southwest on Quai des Célestins and turn left on Place Antonin Gourju. Turn left on rue Colonel Chambonnet and you’ll arrive on ‘Place Bellecour’. It is the largest pedestrian square in Europe. Place Bellecour is famous for its equestrian statue of Louis XIV situated at the center of the square. There, you can also find a statue of the Little Prince and Antoine de Saint-Exupery, a huge Ferris wheel, the Tourist information office of Lyon and many delicious restaurants.
Walk north of Place Bellecour and continue on rue Emile Zola. Turn left on rue des Archers to reach the Place des Célestins and the ‘Théâtre des Célestins’, a magnificent theater dating back to the 19th century.
From Place des Célestins, head north and continue on rue Montcharmont, then rue Jean Fabre. You’ll arrive on the beautiful ‘Place des Jacobins’, a beautiful square with a majestic fountain at its center.
Walk toward rue Jean de Tournes and turn left on rue de la République to reach the imposing ‘Palais de la Bourse de Lyon’, another splendid building. It currently houses the Chamber of Commerce and Industry.
Head toward rue de la Bourse and turn left. Continue straight on rue du Garet and turn right rue Joseph Serlin. You’ll arrive at the ‘Opera House of Lyon’.
Continue west on rue Joseph Serlin and you’ll reach the ‘Hotel de Ville’ (City Hall) and the historic square ‘Place des Terreaux’. The Place des Terreaux is renowned for its sumptuous fountain Bartholdi.
There, you’ll also find the ‘Museum of Fine Arts of Lyon’, located in a former Benedictine abbey. The museum houses outstanding collections of antique art, decorative arts from the Medieval times to the 20th century, sculptures and paintings (including masterpieces from Rembrandt, Ingres, Renoir, Gauguin, Matisse, Monet, Picasso and Chagall). Do not miss the gorgeous sculpture garden.
If you have some time left before dinner, ‘flâne(z)’ along the Rhône and the Saône rivers.
If you’re up for another bouchon, you should eat at the fabulous ‘Café des Fédérations’ at 8-9-10 rue Major Martin. This iconic restaurant offers excellent food at excellent prices. If you want amazing Tapas and great wine, ‘Bel Ami’ at 34, rue du Sergent-Blandan is the restaurant you must try. Last but not least, if you want to have the best vegetarian dining experience in the world, head to ‘Culina Hortus’ (Not a joke! This restaurant was voted best vegetarian restaurant in the world by We’re Smart® Green Guide 2020).
Day 2: Croix Rousse and Parc de la Tête d’or
Itinerary Map
Croix Rousse
The Croix Rousse neighborhood is like a village. With its unique architecture and authentic vibe, the Croix Rousse, ‘the hill that works’, feels quite different (more friendly and personal) than the rest of Lyon. A real gem to discover!
The Quartier des ‘Canuts’, famous silk workers of Lyon, has been the cradle of Lyon’ silk industry since the 16th century. Silk has marked the architecture of the Croix-Rousse. Specifically designed for the Canuts, the buildings on the slopes are very high. This is linked to the silk work of the Canuts; the looms developed by Jacquard were very tall; that’s why the rooms have a ceiling height of around 4-5 meters, and are equipped with huge windows to let the light in. The famous traboules of the Croix Rousse are also linked to the Canuts. First, these traboules allowed the Canuts to go from one building to another, so they could avoid the streets and protect the silks and fabrics transported. Later on, the traboules served as secret passageways to escape the French police and the Gestapo during the World War II.
Start by taking the Metro (Metro Line C) and exit at the “Hénon station”. Head south on the Boulevard des Canuts. You’ll find the gigantic ‘Mur des Canuts’ on your right. This incredible 1200 m2 trompe l’oeil fresco illustrates the livelihood of the Croix Rousse district and its evolution, (including, of course, its endless stairs). It is the largest painted wall in Europe.
Head toward rue Denfert-Rochereau and turn right. Continue straight and turn right on Place de la Croix de Bois. Turn right on rue Jacques-Louis Hénon. Then, turn left on Grande Rue de la Croix Rousse. The Garden ‘Rosa Mir’ will be on your left side. This hidden (and very unusual!) garden is made of stones and shells.
Head south on Grande Rue de la Croix-Rousse and turn left on rue d’Ivry. On you’re right, you’ll find the ‘Maison des Canuts’. The museum tells the history of the origin of silk, explains the silk production cycle but also the Canuts’ work, their revolts, as well as the invention of Jacquard. The museum also offers guided tours with weaving demonstrations on a Jacquard loom. A fascinating history lesson.
Head east on rue d’Ivry, turn right on rue de Belfort, turn left on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse and you’ll reach the ‘Gros Caillou’. This giant rock was found in 1862 during the construction of the funicular. It was excavated and relocated to the eastern end of the Croix-Rousse boulevard. According to its mineralogical composition, the rock was transported from the Alps to Lyon during the Riss Ice Age, around 140,000 years ago. The Esplanade around the Gros Caillou was completed in 2008 and offers a beautiful view of Lyon.
Head back on Boulevard de la Croix Rousse and turn left on the Montée Saint-Sébastien. Continue down until you reach rue Général de Seve. Turn right and continue onto Place Colbert. The ‘Cour des Voraces’ is located across the street, sandwiched between Place Colbert and rue Diderot, in front of La Fabrique. The Cour des Voraces is the most famous traboule of the Croix Rousse. You can reach it either from 14 Montée Saint-Sébastien, from 9 Place Colbert or from 29 rue Imbert Colomes. Built in 1840, the 6-storey building has housed many Canuts for a long time.
Continue on rue Diderot and turn left on rue Pouteau. Turn left on rue Burdeau. You’ll find the Mermet stairs (Escalier Mermet) on your right, a pure example of stair art. The blue stairs were painted by street artist Wenc in May 2019.
Walk down the stairs and turn right on rue René Leynaud. The ‘Village des Créateurs’ is located on the number 19. Created at the end of the 90s, the Village des Créateurs is a fashion business incubator that houses many emerging fashion brands and their ‘ateliers-boutiques’ (workshop studios and boutiques).
Continue on rue René Leynaud, turn left on Montée de la Grande Cote, then right on rue Sergent Blandan and continue straight up to Place Saint Vincent. The ‘Fresque des Lyonnais’ will be in front of you. This incredible mural painting is depicting 30 famous personalities from Lyon (including Antoine de Saint-Exupery, l’Abbé Pierre, les Freres Lumière and Paul Bocuse). This fresco is so realistic that you could almost walk into it.
Take some time to walk along the Saône river. Turn at rue Grenette and continue straight up to Cours Lafayette via the Place des Cordeliers and the bridge Lafayette. At the 102 Cours Lafayette, you’ll reach the internationally famous ‘Halles Bocuse’.
Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
If I had to name one Chef that illustrates the French gastronomy, I will automatically choose the legendary Paul Bocuse. Paul Bocuse has been awarded with 3 Michelin Stars from 1965 until his death in 2018. Admired in many countries, Mr. Paul was also named the Chef of the century. He is nicknamed the Pope of the French Gastronomy.
The Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is an institution in Lyon. Inside the 2000m2 covered market, you’ll find the best food markets of the country. It is where many restaurants do their shopping. But it is also a place where you can drink and eat! A magic place to discover with fabulous restaurants. The perfect place for lunch!
Parc de la Tête d’or
Head toward rue Gribaldi and continue straight until you reach rue Duquesne. Turn right and you’ll reach the Parc de la Tête d’Or.
Covering 117 hectares, the Parc de la Tête d’Or is the largest urban park in France. The Park provides a charming and peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.
The name ‘Tête d’Or’ means ‘Golden Head’; the legend says that a treasure (a golden head of the Christ) is buried somewhere inside the Park.
There is something for everyone there; you’ll find botanical gardens, a greenhouse, a rose garden, a zoo, a huge lake where you can rent a boat, but also many activities for children, including a little train, a carrousel, playgrounds, pony rides, karting and electric mini boats.
To end your day in style, I suggest a diner cruise on the Hermès restaurant boat to admire Lyon by night. The company Bateaux Lyonnais offers wonderful lunch and dinner cruise experiences.
The departure is at 16 Quai Claude Bernard, near the Lumière University.
Day 3: Confluence
Itinerary Map
Former scarcely industrial district of Lyon, the newly built Confluence has become, in recent years, the trendiest district of the city, with a huge array of things to see and do. Located south of the Presqu’Ile where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet, Confluence is definitely an absolute must see in Lyon for first-time visitors and return.
With its stunning modern architecture and ambitious urban revitalization scheme, Confluence is a place on perpetual evolution (in fact, the renovation of the district is not achieved yet).
Start by taking the Metro (Metro Line A) and exit at the “Perrache station”. Take the Tramway T1 direction Debourg and stop at “Musée des Confluences station”.The Musée des Confluences islocated just in front of the tram station.
Only open since December 2014, the ‘Musée des Confluences’ is a museum of natural history, anthropology, societies and civilizations. Made of concrete, stainless steel and glass, the futurist monumental structure is easily recognizable with its unique architectural design. The permanent exhibition is divided into 4 sections: ‘Origins, the stories of the World’, ‘Species, the web of life’, ‘Societies, the Human theater’, and ‘Eternities, visions of the beyond’. There are different temporary exhibitions throughout the year located on the Level 1 of the museum.
On the other side of the museum, at the southern tip of the Presqu’Ile, where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet, there is a charming garden that you should not miss: ‘le Jardin du Musée des Confluences’. It is where you can see up close the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône rivers. It is also where you will currently see the giant sculpture ‘Only Lyon’.
Head back to the front of the museum. Turn left and cross the Quai Perrache. Turn left on Passage Magellan. Continue on Passage Magellan through the tunnel bridge and you’ll find the ‘Mob Hotel’ on your right. The trendy design of the building is quite unusual; their approach wants to be avant-gardist inside out. For lunch, we recommend their restaurant. They serve organic food from local producers but the main specialty is the pizza. The atmosphere here is warm and homey. The restaurant is also very kids-friendly with a special menu dedicated to them and also a playground!
Head toward the Saône river on Quai Rimbaud. On your left, you’ll see the headquarters of GL Events, an international leader in the events industry. The large building made of glass and steel is quite astonishing with its transparent facades. Walk along the docks toward the giant green cube pierced by two big conical atria (the ‘eyes’)! Designed by architects Jakob + MacFarlane, the fluorescent green cube (le Cube Vert) is the headquarters of Euronews.
Next, there is the ‘Pavillon 52’, an innovative architectural achievement. 16km of Ultra High-Performance Fiber-Reinforced Concrete (UHPC) slats cover the façade and serve as a solar filter. The exterior gives the appearance of a closed lens, while in the interior, light is everywhere.
In front of Pavillon 52, you’ll find the iconic ‘Sucrière’. It is the only historical building in the Confluence district that was left intact during the huge urbanization plan. Built in the 1930s, it is a former warehouse attached to two huge silos ‘left’ (gauche) and ‘right’ (droite). The building has housed a sugar factory for a long time (hence the name). Today, the place hosts various events and exhibitions. The Rooftop ‘Le Sucre’ is the place to be in Lyon, and a reference in the nightlife scene. If you are looking where to party, this is the place.
Head toward the Orange Cube (‘Cube orange’). Also designed by architects Jakob + MacFarlane, the Orange cube has a giant hole carved in one of the building’ s angles.
Have a break (and an apéro!) at one of the ‘péniches de Confluence’ (canal boat restaurants tied to the docks of the Saône river on Quai Rimbaud).
It’s time for diner. If there is one legendary restaurant you should try in Lyon, it’s Brasserie Georges, located 30 Cours de Verdin near the Lyon Perrache railway station. Open since 1836, Brasserie Georges is one of the oldest restaurants in Lyon. Their specialties are the choucroute, the pike quenelles (quenelles de brochet), and the pistachio sausage. The Brasserie also brews its own beer. I keep fond memories of this restaurant. If you want to experience traditional French cuisine and atmosphere, this is the right place.
Getting around Lyon
If you’d like to use the metro, funiculars and tram system several times, and if you are 2 travelers, it is more cost-effective to take a carnet with 10 tickets (5 tickets each) as it only costs 17.60€. If you are using the metro more than 5 times, taking an unlimited 24-hour ticket (6.20€), 48-hour ticket (12€) or 72-hour ticket (16€) the day(s) you plan to travel the most is the most convenient (and cheapest) way to travel without hassle.
The Lyon City Card offers unlimited transportation all around Lyon, plus access to 23 museums, including the Musée des Confluences, Musée des Beaux-Arts, Musée Cinéma et Miniature, Musée Lugdunum, Maison des Canuts but also to a river cruise, guided tours and much more. The 1-Day Lyon City Card costs 27€, the 2-Day Lyon City Card costs 37€, the 3-Day Lyon City Card costs 47€ and the 4-Day Lyon City Card costs 57€ (as of winter 2020-2021).
Another (cheap and ecological) way to get around Lyon is by bicycle with Velo’v.
But in my opinion, the best way to explore Lyon is on foot (Lyon is a very ‘walkable’ city).
The other way to get around is by boat with the Vaporetto. It only serves 4 stations: Vaise station, St Paul station (Vieux Lyon), Bellecour station (Presqu’Ile) and Confluence station. The ticket only costs 2€.
Note there are left-luggage facilities where you can leave your bags in a locker while you visit Lyon. Check out this website for more info.
Where to stay in Lyon?
I strongly advise to stay in the city center and avoid the suburbs. You really don’t want to spend the majority of your time in the public transportation.
The Presqu’Ile and the Vieux Lyon are both great areas to stay with plenty of accommodation choices from 3-star hotels to luxury hotels.
The Croix-Rousse is also a great choice with plenty of Airbnb choices.
If you’re on a budget, stay in La Guillotière area. The Confluence district is also quite affordable.
Best Time to visit Lyon
I might sound cheesy but I love Lyon all year round. Yes! Every season has its own charm and uniqueness.
Winter is a great season as you can attend the Festival des Lumières during your visit. The festival takes place every December. It is a magical moment that all visitors to Lyon should experience!
During the spring season, the weather is particularly pleasant. There is also the electronic music festival ‘Nuits Sonores’ all over Lyon for 5 days.
In the summer, the festival Nuits de Fourvière takes place at the Roman theater of Fourvière in the Vieux Lyon and offers theater, music, dance and film shows.
Autumn sees generally less tourists and the weather is still great. It is a perfect moment to visit Lyon and to blend with locals. During the ‘Journées du patrimoine’ in September, for one weekend, you can visit monuments and historical buildings usually closed to the public.
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