Located in the 1st and 4th arrondissements, in the middle of the Seine river, l’Île de la Cité and l’Île Saint Louis are known to be the ancient cradle of Paris.
Here’s my free and self-guided Ile de la Cité & Ile Saint-Louis itinerary to help you plan your best Parisian experience.
Table of Contents
Map
Step 1- Cross the Pont Neuf Bridge to reach Île de la Cité
The Pont Neuf (‘Pont Neuf’ means ‘New Bridge’ in French) is, contrary to its name, the oldest bridge in Paris. The bridge was built between 1578 and 1607. It was the first Parisian bridge without houses and with the first sidewalks. The Pont Neuf is 238 meters long and 20 meters large.
Start by taking the Parisian Metro (Metro Line 7) and exit at “Pont-Neuf station”. Head southwest on Pont Neuf. There are few semicircular alcoves where you can sit and enjoy the views of the Seine on the Pont Neuf bridge. These alcoves used to provide space for vendors to sell their goods without impeding pedestrian sidewalks. Head toward the Quai de l’Horloge and you’ll reach l’Ile de la Cité.
Ile de la Cité is where it all began, it is the island that gave birth to Paris. It is difficult to date exactly the city’s origins but historians think it all began approximately 2,300 years ago. In the 3rd century BC, a Celtic tribe, the ‘Parisii’, lived on the island. In 52 BC, the Parisii were invaded and defeated by the Romans, who then established Lutetia (Paris’ former name). Romans reshaped the island by expanding and heightening it, and Lutetia flourished as a major Roman town.
In 508, Clovis, the King of Francs, made the island the capital of his kingdom. The Palais de la Cité (now occupied by the ‘Palais de Justice’) became the official residence of the Kings of France for approximately 400 years. However, the island was weakened considerably after the Vikings attacks. With Charlemagne, the city lost its status of French’s capital city. In 1112, King Louis Le Gros decided to install his residence back on the island, with his household and the Parliament. But the Palais de la Cité was abandoned by King Charles V who choose to make the Louvre palace his royal residence, and Charles VII decided to leave definitely the Palais de la Cité and house the Parliament inside the Palais instead.
The island remained relatively unchanged during the next centuries, until Baron Haussmann’s massive urban renovation plans. Only 3 major medieval monuments remain from the Middle Ages: Notre Dame de Paris Cathedral, Sainte Chapelle and La Conciergerie.
Step 2- Square du Vert-Galant
You’ll officially arrive in Ile de la Cité when you’ll reach the equestrian statue of Henri IV.
Turn right and go down the stairs; you’ll arrive at the tiny Square du Vert-Galant.
The square du Vert-Galant is located at the western top of the Ile de la Cité. It is named after Henri IV, who was nicknamed ‘Vert-Galant’ because of its numerous mistresses. It is a pretty little square offering nice views on the Seine river.
Step 3- Place Dauphine
Head back to the Pont Neuf bridge. Walk straight onto Rue Henri Robert to reach “Place Dauphine”.
The hidden square ‘Place Dauphine’ is named after Louis XIII, the son (the «Dauphin of France») of King Henri IV. The square is one of the most romantic places in Paris and a well-kept secret among locals. It’s true that it isn’t easy to find the place without knowing about it. The atmosphere is great there and way more intimate than the rest of the island.
Step 4- Tour de l’Horloge
From Place Dauphine, head to Rue de Harlay and turn left. Once you’ll arrive on Quai de l’Horloge, turn right. Continue on Quai de l’Horloge until you reach the Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower). Located on the corner of Quai de l’Horloge and Boulevard du Palais, it is the oldest public clock in Paris. It was erected in 1370 and still ticking! Never forget to look up. It’s crazy how much we can miss by never looking up, especially in Paris.
Step 5- La Conciergerie
Continue on Boulevard du Palais and you’ll reach the “Conciergerie” on your right.
For those who don’t know the place, the Conciergerie is, with the Sainte Chapelle, one of the last vestiges of the former royal Palace of the Merovingian dynasty. The towered facade of the Conciergerie on the Seine river side is a very famous sight among tourists and many of them crowd in front of it to take a picture; but in fact, not many visit the Conciergerie.
La Conciergerie is well known as Marie Antoinette’s prison; it was the antechamber of death during the Reign of Terror. Many prisoners, including Queen Marie-Antoinette and Robespierre, were imprisoned in the Conciergerie before being executed by guillotine. But the Conciergerie wasn’t always a prison, it was originally a royal palace and the residence of the medieval kings of France. In the 14th century, after King Charles V abandoned the palace and relocated his residence to the Louvre palace, the Conciergerie housed the Parliament of Paris, then was used as the main state’s Prison and later, served as a courthouse, before becoming a national historical monument open to the public in 1914.
Step 6- Sainte-Chapelle
Head northeast on Boulevard du Palais and continue your visit to the “Sainte-Chapelle”.
Sainte-Chapelle is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful monuments in Paris. Located on the grounds of the Palais de Justice, Sainte-Chapelle is one of Paris’ most precious gems and a true masterpiece of architecture.
Sainte-Chapelle was built on the initiative of King Saint Louis to house the relics of the Passion of the Christ, including the crown of thorns, a piece of the True Cross and other relics of Jesus Christ. The acquisition of the relics costed more than the construction of the chapel itself. Those relics are now kept inside the Cathedral Notre Dame de Paris (the relics were moved to the City Hall after the devastating Notre Dame Cathedral fire in April 2019). The chapel was built in only 7 years (1241-1248). The Royal chapel was built inside the Royal palace (Palais de la Cité) and was used almost exclusively by the King. With the Conciergerie, Saint Chapelle is one of the last vestiges of the former Royal palace.
What makes Sainte-Chapelle truly unique is its 15 stained glass windows, each 15 meters high, depicting 1,113 scenes from the Old and New Testaments. There are no walls; Sainte-Chapelle is almost entirely made of stained glass! It is a true masterpiece of gothic architecture. And until today, we still don’t know who was the architect of Sainte-Chapelle.
Step 7- Flower Market
Walk toward the Boulevard du Palais and continue onto Rue de Lutèce. Turn left on Rue Aubé to reach Place Louis Lépine. Here, you’ll find the beautiful Flower Market. The Flower Market of Île de la Cité («Marché aux fleurs Reine Elizabeth II») exists since 1809. It is a real haven of tranquility and we highly recommend to visit it! The atmosphere is really authentic and charming. A green oasis in the middle of the island.
Step 8- Lunch Time
Time for lunch. We recommend the restaurant “Au vieux Paris d’Arcole”. The atmosphere is quite unique and the food is nice. To get there from the Flower market, head to Quai de la Corse, turn right on Rue d’Arcole and turn left on Rue Chanoinesse, one of the oldest streets on the island.
Step 9- L’Hôtel Dieu
Head back to Rue d’Arcole and turn right on Parvis Notre Dame. On your right, you’ll find the entrance of l’Hôtel-Dieu.
Let’s be clear: What we commonly call “Hôtel-Dieu” isn’t a hotel AT ALL but a hospital. The hospital was built between 1867 and 1878 at its present location. However, Hôtel-Dieu was founded in 651 and was originally located on the other side of the Parvis de Notre-Dame. It is the oldest hospital in Paris and the oldest hospital still in operation in the world. Not many people know that we can visit the courtyard of the historic Hôtel-Dieu. It is off-the-beaten-path and well worth the visit.
Step 10- Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral
On the Parvis Notre Dame, you’ll find the magnificent Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral. Unfortunately, the Cathedral is closed since the terrible fire that struck on April 15th 2019, and is currently under renovation.
Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral is a symbol of Paris and one of the jewels of the French heritage. It is where Napoleon was crowned Emperor of the French in 1804. It is also where the “crown of thorn” (wreath of thorns that the Christ worn the day of his crucifixion) is (was) kept. The construction of the magnificent gothic Cathedral Notre-Dame de Paris (‘Our Lady of Paris’ Cathedral), one of France’s most famous landmarks, began in 1163 and lasted for almost two centuries. The Cathedral became internationally famous after Victor Hugo published his novel ‘The Hunchback of Notre-Dame’. In fact, Victor Hugo wrote ‘The Hunchback of Notre-Dame’ partly to save the Cathedral!
The Cathedral is deeply rooted in the history of France and holds a very special place in the heart of French citizens. The Cathedral, even after the terrible fire, cannot be missed. The fire on April 15th 2019 was devastating. For now, we can only admire her from the outside. But Notre Dame still stands in her glory!
Step 11- Memorial to the Martyrs of the Deportation
Head toward the Cathedral and take Rue du Cloitre Notre Dame (facing Notre Dame, the street is on your left and stretches along the Cathedral). Continue straight and turn right on Quai de l’Archeveche. Then, turn left and enter the Square de l’Ile de France. You’ll find the Memorial to the Martyrs of the Deportation.
The Memorial to the Martyrs of the Deportation is a monument dedicated to the 200,000 people who were deported to the Nazi concentration camps between 1941 and 1944. The Memorial’s architecture was arranged in a way that makes the visitor understand the pain of the people who were deported.
Step 12- Enter l’Ile Saint-Louis and visit Saint-Louis en l’Ile Church
Head back to Quai de l’Archeveche and turn right. Cross the bridge ‘Pont Saint-Louis’ to reach Ile Saint-Louis.
Ile Saint-Louis only spans 11-hectares, yet the island is very lively with plenty of restaurants, cafés and boutiques to discover. Originally, Ile Saint-Louis was composed of 2 islands separated by a canal: the Ile aux vaches (The Cows’ Island) and the Ile Notre Dame.
In the 17th century, during the reign of Louis XIII, an important urban planning project was implemented; the “Ile aux vaches” and the “Ile Notre Dame” were joined together, the canal was filled, and bridges and hôtels particuliers were built. In 1725, the island was renamed “Ile Saint-Louis”, after King Louis IX, known as ‘Saint-Louis’.
The island remained relatively unchanged since the 17th century. You won’t find big monuments there; the island’s primary vocation is to be a residential island (with many hôtels particuliers). Saint-Louis’ island kept its very authentic charm and a unique medieval village atmosphere.
Continue on Rue Saint Louis en l’Ile. You’ll find the Saint-Louis en l’Ile Church on your right located at 19, rue Saint Louis en l’Ile. The Catholic Church was built between 1656 and 1726, replacing the former Church built in 1623. Architect François Le Vau, brother of the renowned architect Louis Le Vau (one of the main architects of the Palace of Versailles), was responsible for the design of the Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile Church. In 1726, 70 years after its foundation stone was laid, the Church was eventually consecrated by the Bishop of Grenoble, Jean de Caulet.
Step 13- Berthillon
Rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile is the perfect street to do some shopping. You should also try the famous ice cream “Berthillon”. Located at 29-31 Rue Saint Louis en l’Ile, Berthillon is running since 1954. It is definitely the best ice cream shop in Paris! They have so many flavors to choose from. A must-try!
Step 14- Square Barye, Quai d’Anjou and Hotels Particuliers
Continue on Rue Saint Louis en l’Ile toward the other side of the island. At the tip of the island, cross the Boulevard Henri IV and you’ll find the “Square Barye”. It is the one of the best places on the island. It is our favorite spot for a break along the Seine banks. The small public park offers great views on the Seine river. And best of all, it is (almost) never crowded!
Then, head back to Boulevard Henri IV and turn left toward ‘Quai d’Anjou’. Located in the northeastern part of the island between Pont Marie and Pont de Sully, the Quai d’Anjou is where you’ll find three remarkable hôtels particuliers: the Hôtel de Lauzun, Hôtel Lambert and Hôtel Le Vau. It is also famous for hosting a small authentic theater ‘à l’ancienne’.
Step 15- Dinner Time
If you wish to have dinner on the Ile Saint-Louis, we highly recommend the restaurant “L’Ilot Vache” at 35, rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile.
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