The Quartier des Halles (‘Les Halles’) is one of the most dynamic neighborhoods in Paris. Les Halles were originally a huge wholesale food market until the end of the ’60s. The neighborhood changed a lot since then; yet the Quartier des Halles is still one of the best places to experience the authentic Parisian way of life.
In the 12th century, the Ile de la Cité and Place de la Grève markets were relocated to the Petits Champs neighborhood and became the ‘Central Market of Paris’. The market grew progressively and an increasing number of halls were built. In the 1850s, the architect Victor Baltard designed the famous “Halles centrales de Paris” with 12 pavilions, each of them with a specialty (Halles of wheat and corn, Halles of leather, Halles of meat, Halles of herbs and spices, Halles of wine, Halles of fruits and vegetables, etc…). Writer Emile Zola called Les Halles “the belly of Paris”; the reason is that Les Halles de Baltard literally fed Paris and the Parisians for centuries (hence the nickname “belly of Paris”). In 1969, Les Halles de Baltard were closed and the buildings destroyed. Ten years later, in 1979, Les Halles were replaced by the Forum des Halles, France’s most visited shopping mall.
Now, the Quartier des Halles houses the Forum des Halles, the Nelson Mandela garden, the Saint Eustache church, the iconic Montorgueil street and last but not least, the world’s biggest underground station, ‘Gare RER Châtelet Les Halles’.
Focus on Les Halles and its main attractions.
Saint-Eustache Church
The Church of Saint-Eustache (‘Eglise Saint-Eustache’) is a Parish church located in the heart of Les Halles neighborhood. The magnificent Church was completed in 1633 and consecrated in 1637, more than one century after the first stone was laid in 1532. It replaced the former Saint-Agnes Chapel, built on the same site in the 13th century. With its unique dimensions and combination of Gothic, Renaissance and Classic architectural styles, Saint-Eustache Church has nothing to envy Notre-Dame.
Did you know?
- The Nave of Saint-Eustache is higher (33m) than the Nave of Notre Dame (29m).
- Its organ is the largest pipe organ of the country (it possesses 8000 pipes!).
- The Church is also known as the Church of the Pork Butchers. Every year, since the beginning of the 1800s, Saint-Eustache Church holds a mass for the pork butchers of Paris.
- It is where Louis XIV made his first communion, and where Cardinal Richelieu, Moliere et Madame de Pompadour were baptized.
Our opinion
It is one of the most impressive churches in Paris and also one of the most beautiful. Saint-Eustache’s architecture is truly breathtaking. Located near Palais Royal and the amazing Rue Montorgueil, there is no doubt that the Church deserves a visit. Saint-Eustache attracts less tourists than Notre-Dame or Sainte-Chapelle but has nothing to envy these two. As a result, Saint-Eustache is way less crowded and way more enjoyable. A hidden gem that you should put on your bucket list!
Where? 146, rue Rambuteau, 75001 Paris. Near the Forum des Halles and rue Montorgueil, in front of the Nelson Mandela garden.
Access? Les Halles station (Metro 4) and Châtelet Les Halles Station (RER A, B and D).
When? Mondays to Fridays from 9:30am to 7pm / Saturdays from 10am to 7:15pm / Sundays from 9am to 7:15pm.
Rue Montorgueil
Rue Montorgueil is one of my favorite streets in Paris and I couldn’t wait to show the “Quartier Montorgueil” to Krishna. The neighborhood holds sentimental value to me; it was where my parents lived in the 80s, where they hanged out, where my father worked, where they shared so many memories and dreams.
Why visit?
- For its traditional French cafés ‘comme à l’époque’.
- For “Stohrer”, at 51 rue Montorgueil, the oldest pastry shop in Paris, open since 1730. It is there that the pastry “Baba au Rhum” was invented.
- For “Au Rocher de Cancale”, at 78 rue Montorgueil, a restaurant that was once famous for its oysters, open since 1804. Nowadays, they mostly serve salads but the name stayed.
- For “L’Escargot”, at 38 rue Montorgueil, an iconic restaurant specialized in “escargots”, open since 1832. You should definitely try it out!
- For “G. Detou”, at 58 rue Tiquetonne (adjacent to rue Montorgeuil, we wanted to put this shop on our list!), an extraordinary culinary supply shop.
- For “La Fermette”, at 86 rue Montorgueil, an amazing cheese shop.
- For its street art.
Our opinion
Rue Montorgueil is a fantastic pedestrian street in Paris and I think I will always return. It is also a true foodies’ paradise. There are lots of restaurants, traditional cafés/bistros, and iconic shops to discover there. Rue Montorgueil has a real Parisian village atmosphere. It is overlooked by tourists but quite famous among locals. Rue Montorgueil possesses a very special atmosphere. Trust me, you will love it!
Where? It is located in the 1s tand 2nd districts with Saint-Eustache and Forum des Halles on its south side and the Sentier neighborhood on its north side.
Access? Les Halles station (Metro 4), Sentier station (Metro 3) or Châtelet Les Halles Station (RER A, B and D).
Forum des Halles
In 2011, the Forum des Halles went under reconstruction; it lasted until 2018. The Forum des Hallesis now a huge underground shopping mall with a very special architecture. It is particularly known for its huge canopy. The Forum des Halles is France’s most visited shopping mall.
Our opinion
The Forum des Hallesis a great (enormous!) shopping mall. Even if you don’t plan to go shopping, it is interesting to stop by to see the canopy, made of glass and steel, when visiting the surroundings.
Is it worth shopping there? Probably not! Better to go shopping at the Champs-Élysées, Rue de Rivoli or the covered passages instead.
Please note: Although it is perfectly safe to visit le Forum des Halles during the day, we do not recommend visiting this place in the evening.
Where? 101, Porte Berger, 75001 Paris.
Access? Les Halles station (Metro 4) and Châtelet Les Halles Station (RER A, B and D).
When? Mondays to Saturdays from 10am to 7pm. Sundays from 11am to 7pm.
Nelson Mandela Garden
Formerly known as the “Jardin des Halles”, the garden Nelson Mandela was under construction until 2018. Nelson Mandela garden now possesses a 1400m2 playground for children from 2 to 6 years old and a 2500m2 playground for children from 7 to 11 years old.
Our opinion
Is it worth a visit? If you have kids, yes! Otherwise, in our opinion, there are (way!) better parks and gardens to discover in Paris.
Please note: Although it is perfectly safe to visit Nelson Mandela garden during the day, we do not recommend visiting this place in the evening.
Where? In front of the Forum des Halles and the Church of St-Eustache.
Access? Les Halles station (Metro 4) and Châtelet Les Halles Station (RER A, B and D).
When? Every day 24/7.
Fontaine des Innocents
Built between 1547 and 1550 on the Place Joachim du Bellay, the Fontaine des Innocents is the oldest monumental public fountain in Paris. The site is located on the former Holy Innocents’ Cemetery, hence its name “Fontaine des Innocents”.
Our opinion
The Fontaine des Innocents is a popular place to give someone a “rendez-vous” in Paris, as it is conveniently located in the center of Les Halles – Beaubourg, near the Saint-Jacques Tower, Saint Eustache Church and Centre Pompidou Museum. The Fountain is beautiful and holds an important architectural and historical value.
Where? Place Joachim du Bellay near the Forum des Halles.
Access? Les Halles station (Metro 4), Châtelet station (Metro 1, 4, 7, 11 and 14) or Châtelet Les Halles Station (RER A, B and D).
Le Pharamond
The historic Parisian restaurant founded in 1832 is famous for its good old-fashioned dish: “Tripes à la mode de Caen”. The iconic Parisian restaurant offers excellent food at excellent prices.
Our opinion
Excellent value for money! The food and service are excellent. The place is really beautiful. If there is one restaurant you need to try out in Les Halles neighborhood, it is surely this one.
Where? 24, rue de la Grande Truanderie, 75001 Paris.
Access? Etienne Marcel station (Metro 4).
When? Every day from noon to midnight.
For more travel inspiration in Paris, follow my Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/paris_kathmandu/
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