Swayambhunath: A Travel Guide to Kathmandu’s Monkey Temple

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Last Updated: March 19, 2021

If you only have time for one attraction in Kathmandu, make it Swayambhunath. Also known as the “Monkey temple”, Swayambhunath is Kathmandu’s most famous, most visited and most iconic site. 

Swayambhunath stupa is the oldest stupa in Kathmandu and one of the oldest religious sites in Nepal. The historic landmark has been a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. 

Swayambhunath, or the Monkey temple as it is often referred to, is located on the top of a hill west of Kathmandu, and consists of a main (huge) stupa surrounded by Hindu and Buddhist temples and monuments of great cultural and historical importance. 

Swayambhunath is achingly beautiful and absolutely fascinating. Besides, the site also offers an amazing panoramic view of the capital city. It is definitely a must-see for every traveler landing in Kathmandu. 

Here’s everything you need to know before you visit.

A Brief History of Swayambhunath

swayambhu stupa

The legend says that Kathmandu was once a large lake and the hill of Swayambhu was born out of a lotus flower that emerged in the middle of this lake. Swayambhu (Swayambhu literally means “self-built” / “self-created”) is believed to have risen up by itself. According to the legend, Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom and knowledge, came on a pilgrimage from China to see and worship the lotus; impressed by its brilliant radiance, he decided to cut a gorge with his sword at Chobhar to drain the lake and eventually made Swayambhu accessible to all pilgrims. 

The exact date of Swayambhu’s construction is unknown, but its stupa is considered the oldest (known) stupa in Nepal (it is said that the stupa is more than 2,000 years old). The earliest evidence of the Swayambhu stupa’s existence dates back to 5th century. Swayambhunath is believed to have been founded by the great-grandfather of King Manadeva, King Vrsadeva. Some of the shrines and temples around the Stupa were built during the Licchavi period (400-750 CE).

Did you know? 

swayambhunath

Swayambhunath is worshiped by both Buddhists and Hindus. In fact, the Buddhist stupa is surrounded by Hindu temples. It is one of the rare religious sites in the world where you can witness a total harmony between 2 religions. A good example to follow, isn’t it?

Swayambhunath, also known as the Monkey temple, is home to hundreds of monkeys. The monkeys of Swayambhu are considered ‘holy monkeys’. The reason is that Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom and knowledge, grew his hair long when he was raising the Swayambhu hill; then, he got head lice and the lice transformed into these monkeys.

You have to climb 365 steep stone steps to reach the stupa (I didn’t really count but there were a lot!). A real workout! But don’t worry, if you wish to avoid the stairs, you can reach the top entrance directly by car.

For Newari Buddhists, Swayambhunath is the most sacred Buddhist site in Nepal. For Tibetan Buddhists, it is the second most important after Boudhanath stupa

Swayambhunath is a UNESCO world heritage site since 1979.

You always have to walk in a clockwise direction around the stupa, with the stupa being on your right side.

Main Festivals of Swayambhunath 

There are three main festivals celebrated at Swayambhunath: Gunla, Buddha Jayanti and Lhosar.

Gunla is the most important festival celebrated in Swayambhu. It is a month long Newar Buddhist festival celebrating the rains’ retreat. Every day, during the festival, devotees gather, recite scriptures and play traditional Newar music. The festival usually falls in August.

Buddha Jayanti, also known as Buddha Purnima, is a Buddhist festival dedicated to the life of Lord Buddha; more specifically, his birth, his enlightenment and his death, Mahaparinirvana. The festival usually falls in April or May.

Lhosar is one of the most important festivals in Swayambhu. The festival celebrates the Buddhist New Year (‘Lo’ means ‘new’ and ‘Sar’ means ‘year’). It usually falls in February.

What to see and what to do in Swayambhunath?

The Main Stupa of Swayambhunath

swayambhu stupa

(I do specify ‘Main’ stupa as there are many small stupas around the site).

It is said that stupas represent the enlightened mind of Buddha.

The structure of the Swayambhunath stupa is highly symbolic. Here are some basic information regarding the structure of the stupa:

 The umbrella (at the top of the stupa) represents the enlightenment.

The gilded spire with its thirteen golden disks represents the 13 steps to complete enlightenment. The stupa was renovated in 2010 and the spire was re-painted using 20kg of gold.

 The two eyes looking from the 4 sides are the eyes of the Buddha, who sees everywhere. 

The nose, looking like a question mark (Nepali number 1, Ek), represents the unity of all things.

  The whitewashed dome represents the earth.

Around the base of the stupa, in four different directions, you’ll find the statues of the Five Dhyani Buddhas who represent the 5 cosmic elements (earth, water, ether, air and fire) ~ Akshobhya (water), Ratnasambhava (earth), Amitabha (fire), Amoghasiddhi (air) and Vairocana (ether) ~ and their consorts.

The Shrines & Temples around the stupa

There are numerous statues, shrines and temples in Swayambhu. Here are some important structures that you’ll see around the stupa:

Harati Devi Temple

Harati temple

Located on the northwestern side of the Stupa, the Harati temple is a Hindu temple dedicated to Harati, the Goddess of smallpox and protector of all children.

 Shantipur (Place of Peace)

Shantipur is a mysterious temple known for hiding a secret underground chamber which is always locked. Only Buddhacharya priests are allowed to enter inside the temple. 

The legend says that in the 5th century, the Tantric master ‘Shantikar Acharya’ sealed himself in an underground chamber beneath the temple and subsequently attained an immortal state. Devotees believe that Shantikar is still living and meditating there. In 1658, King Pratap Malla went into the underground chamber to seek help in order to end the drought in Kathmandu. After going through many scary underground chambers, the King eventually found Shantikar who gave him a mandala. The King left with the Mandala and as soon as he came out of the temple, the rain started. 

 Agnipur

Agnipur, a small shrine guarded by two lions, is dedicated to Agni, the Hindu God of Fire.

 Nagpur

Nagpur is a small tank dedicated to Naga, the Snake God. You can see the snake idol at the bottom of the tank when there is no water.

 Vayupur

Vayupur is a shrine dedicated to Vayu, God of Wind and Air.

 Pratapur and Anantapur

Pratapur and Anantapur

Pratapur and Anantapur are two tall white shikar style temples that were built by King Pratap Malla in 1646. These two Shikara temples are dedicated to the King himself, Pratap Malla, and his wife, Ananta Priya. 

 Vasundhara Mandir

Vasundhara Mandir is a temple dedicated to Vasundhara, the Buddhist Goddess of Wealth, Prosperity and Abundance, who is often compared to Lakshmi, the Hindu Goddess of Wealth.

 Agam house 

The Agam house, also known as Aagan Chhen, is a shelter for the Buddhacharya priests and their families.

 Statue of Dipankara 

statue of Dipankara

Hidden on the north-western side of the stupa, behind a courtyard of small chaityas, you’ll find the black statue of Dipankara, also known as the ‘Buddha of Light’, one of the past Buddhas who attained enlightenment before Gautama Buddha. The beautiful statue dates back to the 7th century.

The Vajra thunderbolt

At the top of the stairs, on the eastern side of the Stupa, you’ll find a giant gilded Vajra, the Great Thunderbolt, also known as Dorje. Decorated with the animal signs of the Tibetan zodiac, the Vajra represents the power of enlightenment and is said to be indestructible.

Swayambhu Buddhist Museum 

It seems that not many people notice this small museum. However, there are two strong reasons to visit it: 1) You’ll find many rare Buddhist statues inside the museum, including a beautiful statue of a Sleeping Buddha, 2) It’s free!

The Chaityas courtyard

swayambhu chaityas

Located on the northwestern side of the Stupa, you’ll find an open space with many small chaityas. 

The Stairs of Swayambhunath

stairs up to Swayambhu

If you really want to experience Swayambhu the proper way, you will have to follow the pilgrims and climb the 365 steps leading up to the top of the hill and the stupa. Making the climb is worth the effort. Besides, there is so much to see on the way to Swayambhu stupa (such as the beautiful seated Buddha statues at the base of the eastern stairway).

However, if you wish to avoid the stairs, you can reach the top western entrance directly by car.

The Viewpoint

It is one of the best reasons to visit Swayambhu. Try to come early in the morning for the sunrise or in the evening for the sunset. The panoramic view over the Kathmandu valley is simply breathtaking! 

The World Peace Pond

The World Peace Pond is located on the western side of Swayambhunath stupa. There’s a statue of Buddha standing on a lotus flower in the middle of the pond. According to the tradition, if you toss a coin into the peace pond and if your coin reaches the metal bucket, your wish will be granted.

The Monkey Pool

Watch the monkeys diving, swimming and playing in the water tank kept for them to bathe. The Monkey swimming pool is a really nice (and fun!) place to see!

The Monasteries 

The Karma Raja Maha Vihar Monastery, located at the northern side of the Swayambhu stupa, was badly damaged by the April 2015 Earthquake and was still under reconstruction at the time of writing this article. 

Part of the Karma Raja Maha Vihar Monastery, the Karma Kagyu Lineage Monastery is one of the most important schools of Tibetan Buddhism and one of the oldest schools of Kagyu tradition.

The Dewa Dharma Monastery is worth visiting for its bronze icon of Buddha and its traditional Tibetan paintings.

Located at the northern side of the site, the beautiful Whochen Thokjay Monastery is also well worth a visit.

The Buddha Amideva Park 

Buddha Amideva park

Located at the base of the Swayambhu hill, the Buddha Amideva Park was built in 2003 and is known for its three huge golden statues, representing Shakyamuni Buddha, Chenrezig and Guru Rinpoche.

How to visit Swayambhunath?

swayambhunath

Swayambhunath is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations for Buddhists and probably the most popular attraction in Kathmandu; it is no surprise that the site is often crowded with both locals and tourists. 

The best times to visit Swayambhunath are early morning and evening. Swayambhu is one of the best places in Kathmandu to watch the sunrise and sunset over the Kathmandu Valley.

There is no dress code to visit Swayambhu; however, try to dress modestly (particularly if you decide to visit one or more monasteries).

It is well worth it to combine your visit with Kathmandu Durbar Square, as it is located not too far from Swayambhu. You should count at least 3 hours to hit the highlights of Swayambhu. 

How to get to Swayambhunath?

You can get to Swayambhunath:

  • On foot: Swayambhunath is a nice walk from Thamel (about 30mn walk). If you are staying in Thamel, you don’t need to take a taxi. Instead, you can walk from Thamel to Swayambhu via the narrow backstreets of Kathmandu.
  • By taxi (if you aren’t staying in Thamel or if you simply want to avoid the stairs and access the site via the top western entrance).
  • By Tootle, a Nepali app that allows you to get an easy ride inside Kathmandu by matching you with bikers who are on your way.
  • By Pathao, same kind of app as above but working with cars as well.

Where to eat near Swayambhunath? 

Give the restaurant ‘Basuri Veg’ a try if you want to eat near Swayambhu. If you just want to have a coffee, there are plenty of small cafes near the stupa.

Where to stay near Swayambhunath? 

If you wish to stay near the Swayambhunath area, I suggest you to stay in Thamel, as it is a short walking distance from Swayambhu. 

Budget 

If you are on a budget and/or wish to immerse yourself in the local culture, favor a homestay instead of a hotel. Otherwise, Maya Boutique Hotel (located in Thamel) is a great budget choice.

Mid-Range

Also located in Thamel, Kathmandu Guest House (by KGH Group) is definitely one of the best mid-range hotels in the area.

Luxury

Yak and Yeti is a luxury hotel with a nice swimming pool; it is definitely a great choice and located near Kathmandu Durbar Square, Thamel and Swayambhu.


Price? 200NPR.

Where in Kathmandu?


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3 Comments

  1. Nicolas

    Wow! So many things that I didn’t know. I need to visit again. We missed the Monkey pool 🙁 and the Buddha statues. I didn’t know about the museum neither. Thanks!

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