Palais-Royal: A hidden oasis in the heart of Paris

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The Palais Royal is often overlooked and ignored by tourists, and that’s the main reason why we like it. Unlike the Tuileries garden, the Palais-Royal (meaning “Royal Palace” in French) and its little garden are a quiet refuge in the heart of Paris; and trust me, this is very rare in the 1st arrondissement! It is located near the Louvre; so, if you are visiting the museum or the Tuileries garden, do not hesitate to stroll towards the Palais Royal. It’s true that you cannot visit the Palace itself (not open to the public) as it now houses the Council of State, the Constitutional Council and the Ministry of Culture, but you can still walk through the arcades and visit the Cour d’Honneur and the Palais Royal’s garden. A must-see in Paris!

Little History

Built in 1628, the “Palais-Royal” was the residence of Cardinal Richelieu and was originally called “Palais Cardinal”. Upon Richelieu’s death in 1642, the palais was given to King Louis XIII. After King Louis XIII’s death the following year, the palais became home to young Sun King Louis XIV (before he moved to the Louvre and then the Versailles Palace). In 1661, the Duke of Orleans moved into the Palais-Royal and it became temporarily the “Palais d’Orleans”. In the late 18th century, the Palais Royal became the place to be seen with its luxury shopping boutiques and fine restaurants. At night, it also became the main place for prostitution and gambling. As author Lamothe-Langon said, “Paris is the capital of France, the Palais-Royal is the capital of Paris”. Today, the Palais-Royal is the seat of the Council of State, the Constitutional Council and the Ministry of Culture. 

What to see and what to do? 

Besides the Palais-Royal and its beautiful historic arcades, you should visit: 

The Cour d’Honneur with the “Columns of Buren” (Colonnes de Buren) by artist Daniel Buren

In 1986, artist Daniel Buren created a piece of art “Les Deux Plateaux” in the Cour d’Honneur of the Palais-Royal (art installation known as the “columns of Buren”), replacing a former parking lot. There are 260 black and white striped columns of different heights installed inside the inner courtyard. The Cour d’Honneur and Daniel Buren’s columns are for many a must-see; I might be old school but I personally think the art installation isn’t matching the Palais Royal’ style while Krishna find the contemporary sculpture pretty interesting. However, the columns of Buren are surely a better choice than a parking lot! This spot is now known as one of the most Instagrammable places in Paris.

The Palais Royal’s Garden (Jardin du Palais Royal) 

A romantic garden that not many tourists know about. The Jardin du Palais Royal is a well-manicured garden that is enclosed and not easy to spot. It is a great place to get away from the crowds. It was the garden where the King Louis XIV (the Sun King) used to play as a child. A must-see! We particularly love the symmetry and elegance of the garden; and of course, the “Poem chairs”!

The “Petit Canon” (Little Cannon)

In the “Jardin du Palais Royal”, there is a little curiosity, a “petit canon” on the top of a stone pedestal. It is a very, very tiny cannon! In 1786, the clockmaker Mr. Rousseau installed the little cannon in the arcades and later on, it was moved in the garden. The purpose? Every day, at noon sharp, the little cannon was fired and allowed Parisians to set their watches. The original “petit canon” was stolen in 1998 and was replaced by an exact replica.

The “Comédie-Française” 

The Comédie-Française was founded in 1680 under the reign of Louis XIV, the Sun King, and it is today the oldest active theater in the world! It is also known as the “House of Molière”, the same place where Molière produced his plays before his death in 1673. Molière is known as the greatest writer in the French history (this is why we refer the French language as “the language of Molière”).

One of the oldest restaurants in Paris: “Le Grand Véfour”

Le Grand Véfour is more than a restaurant, it is an iconic institution and the oldest gastronomical restaurant of Paris (created in 1784) where famous legends had their habits (Bonaparte and Josephine, Jean Cocteau, Victor Hugo, Colette, Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir to name but a few). Their Menu Plaisir is quite expensive but it is a truly remarkable culinary experience!

Where? Near the Louvre museum and the Tuileries Garden.

Access? Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre station (Metro 1 or 7). 

When? Every day. Winter: 7:30am to 8:30pm / Spring-Summer: 7am to 10:15pm (April to March) and 7am to 11pm (June to August).

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