A Complete Travel Guide to Bhaktapur in Nepal

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Last Updated: November 20, 2021

Bhaktapur is, hands down, my favorite city in the Kathmandu Valley. The vibe of this place is indefinable. Whoever visits Bhaktapur will surely agree with me when I say that it is one of the most captivating cities in Nepal. From its beautiful sacred temples and remarkable architecture to its charming medieval atmosphere and traditional craftsmanship heritage, Bhaktapur is undoubtedly one of the most unique places in Nepal to explore with plenty of things to see and do. 

Bhaktapur is a treasure trove of Nepal’s finest architecture and art. With its maze of narrow pedestrian streets, the city is definitely best discovered on foot. Located about 15km east of Kathmandu, Bhaktapur is like a step back in time. It is the best place to soak up the timeless beauty of the ancient Newari heritage. There is no other place like it.

Bhaktapur, also known as ‘Khwopa’ and ‘Bhadgaon’, means ‘the city of devotees’ in Nepali. The former capital of the Malla Kingdom was founded by King Ananda Malla in the 12th century. With Patan Durbar Square and Kathmandu Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Durbar Square is one of the three Durbar Squares (‘Durbar’ means palace in Nepali) in the Kathmandu Valley. Of the three cities, Bhaktapur is, without a doubt, the best preserved. The medieval town has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

Most travelers only spend one day in Bhaktapur. Yes, you can spend a full day in Bhaktapur, hit the highlights and move on. But you will definitely be missing out! There are so many things to see, do and experience in Bhaktapur that I think you should plan to spend at least 2 days to discover what this magical city has to offer. 

We’ve visited Bhaktapur many times and have compiled our comprehensive travel guide to the ‘city of devotees’. Whether you’re spending a few days in Bhaktapur or make it a quick stop, this detailed travel guide will definitely help you plan an unforgettable trip. 

Watch our Bhaktapur Video

What to see and what to do in Bhaktapur?

Bhaktapur suffered massive damages during the 2015 Earthquake. Many monuments and temples were severely damaged or destroyed. However, Bhaktapur remains an incredible city of living heritage, and most of the temples and heritage buildings are now rebuilt. 

Note: The entrance fee to enter the Heritage Town of Bhaktapur is 1,500NPR (around $15). The ticket is only available for one day. However, you can extend your ticket for free for the duration of your visa directly at the ticket booth. 

Squares, Main temples and Heritage Monuments in Bhaktapur

The four main squares of Bhaktapur are: Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square, Dattatreya Square and Pottery Square.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is the main (and largest) square in Bhaktapur. It is where you’ll find the Royal Palace and a multitude of remarkable temples and monuments.

The Golden Gate
Golden Gate of Bhaktapur

The Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka) was built in the 1750’s by King Ranajit Malla. It is, in fact, the entrance to the Royal Palace of Bhaktapur (Palace of 55 Windows) and Taleju temple, located inside the historical courtyard (Mul Chowk) of the Palace. This masterpiece made of gilded copper displays the incredible craftsmanship that reflects the Malla era.

The 55-Window Palace (Royal Palace of Bhaktapur)
Royal Palace of Bhaktapur

The Royal Palace of Bhaktapur, also known as the 55-Window Palace, is renowned for its fantastic woodcarving. The construction of the Palace began in 1696 under the reign of King Bhupatindra Malla and was achieved 58 years later, in 1754, during the reign of his son, King Ranajit Malla, the last Malla King of Bhaktapur. 

Unfortunately, the Palace was badly damaged by the 1934 Earthquake and the upper levels were totally destroyed (but later rebuilt, although the balconies were never rebuilt to their original proportions). The interior of the Palace is still closed to visitors. 

The Taleju Temple 

Inside the Palace complex, you’ll also find the Taleju temple.

Built in 1553 (before the Palace!), the temple is dedicated to the Goddess Taleju Bhawani, known as the Royal deity of the Malla Kings. You cannot enter inside the temple if you aren’t Hindu but you can have a glimpse of the temple from the Mul Chowk entrance. 

Naga Pokhari 

Do not miss out Naga Pokhari, the Royal Bath built in 1678by King Raja Jitamitra Malla, also located inside the Royal Palace grounds. The Pond is encircled by gilded stone snake spouts (‘Naga’ means snake in Nepali) and has a King Cobra at its center. The Naga Pokhari was used for the ritual immersion of the Taleju idol.

Ugrachandi & Bhairab statues 

The Ugrachandi and Bhairab statues are located on each side of the gate of the Shree Padma Higher Secondary School, near the main entrance of Bhaktapur Durbar Square. The Ugrachandi statue is located on the left side of the school and the Bhairav statue on the right side. They were both commissioned by King Bhupatindra Malla. Bhairab represents the fearsome form of Lord Shiva and Ugrachandi is the incarnation of his consort, Durga. 

It is said that the artisan who created these sculptures had his hands cut off by the King to prevent him from reproducing the same artwork for somebody else.

The Taleju Bell & the Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla

The Big Bell, also known as Taleju Bell, was erected in 1737 during the reign of King Ranajit Malla. The Bell was used during the worshipping ritual of the Goddess Taleju.

Near the Bell, facing the Taleju temple, you’ll find the bronze statue of King Bhupatindra Malla (1699) sitting atop a pillar with his hands in prayer showing his devotion toward Goddess Taleju.

The Vatsala Durga temple
Vatsala temple, Bhaktapur

Behind the Taleju Bell, there is the Vatsala Durga temple destroyed by the 2015 Earthquake but completely rebuilt in 2020.

The Vatsala Durga temple is a Shikhara-style temple dedicated to Goddess Durga. The beautiful temple bears a resemblance to the Krishna temple in Patan Durbar Square. The construction started in 1672 under the reign of King Jagat Prakash Malla and was achieved in 1674 by King Jitamitra Malla. The temple was later renovated by King Bhupatindra Malla in 1721. 

The Pashupatinath Temple
Pashupatinath temple, Bhaktapur

Also known as ‘Yaksheswor Mahadev temple’, the Pashupatinath temple in Bhaktapur is the replica of the famous Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu. Located behind the Vatsala Durga temple, the Pashupatinath temple was built in the 15th century during the reign of King Yaksha Malla (hence, the name Yaksheswor temple) and is said to be one of the oldest temples in Bhaktapur.

Chyasalin Mandap
Chyasalin Mandap in Bhaktapur

This octagonal structure (the word ‘Chyasin’ means eight-sided in reference to its octagonal roof) isn’t a temple but a pavilion. Completely destroyed by the 1934 Earthquake, Chyasalin Mandap was rebuilt in the 90’s and luckily survived the 2015 Earthquake.

It is said that the pavilion was built between the 55 Window Palace and the Pashupatinath temple to protect the Palace against the thunderous force of the Pashupatinath temple. Later on, the pavilion was used as a poetry competition platform.

The Siddhi Lakshmi Temple
Siddhi Lakshmi temple in Bhaktapur

The exquisite Siddhi Lakshmi temple, also known as ‘Lohan Dega’, was built by King Jagat Prakash Malla in the 17th century. There are fifteen steps leading up to the temple and five plinths, each with a pair of guardians. The first pair is one man and one woman, the second pair two horses, then two rhinos, two human-lions and at the top, two camels.

This temple is also a popular platform where people climb to witness the colorful festivals of Bhaktapur.

Char Dham Temples
Char Dam, Bhaktapur

There are four Char Dham temples in Bhaktapur Durbar Square. They were built for the pilgrims who couldn’t visit the four Dhams (‘char’ means ‘four’ in Nepali) located in India.

Badrinath temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his incarnation form of Narayan.

Rameshwar temple is an open temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Gopinath temple, also known as ‘Dwarika temple’, is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and houses three deities: Krishna, Subhadra and Balaram.

Kedarnath temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Taumadhi Square

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is maybe the most visited square in Bhaktapur but Taumadhi is surely the most beautiful. And that’s probably because of one of its temples dominating the whole square: the very impressive Nyatapola temple.

The Nyatapola Temple, the Tallest Temple in Nepal
Nyatapola temple in Bhaktapur

Nyatapola temple is, without doubt, the most impressive temple in Nepal. It is also, in my opinion, the most beautiful. The 5-storeyed temple is about 30m high. It is the tallest temple in Nepal. 

The temple was built in 1702-1703 within a 7-month period (214 days to be precise) by King Bhupatindra Malla, and is dedicated to the Goddess Siddhi Lakshmi. The idol of the Goddess is locked inside the temple. It is said that the idol is so fearsome that only the local priests are allowed to enter and worship it.

King Bhupatindra Malla ordered the construction of this temple in front of the Bhairabnath temple to control the anger of Bhairab (Bhairab represents the terrifying form of Lord Shiva) as only the powerful Goddess Siddhi Lakshmi was capable of dominating Bhairab and calming his rage.

Unfortunately, the temple isn’t open to the public, even not to the Hindu devotees (except the priests). But it shouldn’t stop you from climbing the stairway up to the top and wander around the temple’s terraces. On each side of the staircase, you’ll find plinths, each with a pair of guardians. The first pair is two famous wrestlers, Jayamal and Phattu, the seconds elephants, then there are two lions, then two griffins, and at the top, a tiger and a lion. 

The Bhairabnath Temple
Bhairabnath temple, Bhaktapur

Located on the eastern side of the Taumadhi square, the 3-storeyed Bhairabnath temple is dedicated to Bhairab, the terrifying form of Lord Shiva. 

The temple was built in the early 17th century by King Jagat Jyoti Malla, but it was only a single-storeyed temple at that time; later on, two storeys were added by King Bhupatindra Malla.

Inside the Bhairabnath temple, there is the head idol of Bhairab, which only measures 15cm. The legend says that Bhairab came in Bhaktapur disguised as a man to witness the Bisket Jatra festival. A priest recognized him and tried to capture him with a spell, but Bharaib tried to escape by sinking into the ground so the priest chopped his head off and enshrined it inside the temple.

The Til Madhav Narayan Temple
Til Madhav temple, Bhaktapur

This beautiful small temple isn’t easy to find; it is hidden in a courtyard behind a row of houses. We don’t know exactly when Til Madhav Narayan temple was built but there is an inscription dating its use in 1080 making it one of the oldest temples in Bhaktapur. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his incarnation form of Narayan. Surprisingly, this temple isn’t often mentioned by travel guides.

Dattatreya Square

Located within a 15-minute walk from the main Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Dattatreya Square, also known as ‘Tachapal Tole’, is the oldest square in Bhaktapur. It is said that the square dates back to the 15th century but many historians and researchers think it is even older. This square is known for its many Maths (residences of Hindu priests) surrounding the Square, the most famous Math being the ‘Pujari Math’, the oldest Math in the Kathmandu Valley.

Dattatreya temple
Dattatreya temple, Bhaktapur

The Dattatreya temple is the only temple of its kind in Nepal; it is dedicated to Dattatreya, a combination of the trinity Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva. The temple was built in 1428 by King Yaksha Malla, , and was renovated during the reign of his son King Raya Malla around 1495.  

It is said that the 3-storey temple was built using the wood from a single tree. Dattatreya temple is guarded by the statues of two famous wrestlers, Jayamal and Phattu, the same guardians who protect Nyatapola temple.

Bhimsen temple
Bhimsen temple in Bhaktapur

Located in front of the Dattatreya temple, the Bhimsen temple is a two-storey temple dedicated to one of the five Pandavas from the Mahabharata: Bhimsen, the God of Business and Trade. Built in 1605, the temple is quite unusual as the ground floor is fully open.

Wakupati Narayan temple
Wakupati Narayan temple, Bhaktapur

Built in 1667, the Wakupati Narayan temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his incarnation form of Narayan. Located in a courtyard a short walk north from the Dattatreya square, the two-storey temple with its four Garudas is really worth the detour.

Peacock Window
Peacock window

Look up and search for the ‘Peacock Window’, also nicknamed the ‘Mona Lisa of Nepal’. The Peacock Window is located in a side alley, attached to the Pujari Math (which became the Woodcarving Museum). The carved window is said to be one of the most beautiful wooden sculptures in Nepal, and dates back to the 15th century.

Pottery Square 

In reality, there are two pottery squares in Bhaktapur: one located near Taumadhi Square and the other near Dattatreya square. The one located near Taumadhi square is definitely the best. 

Pottery square in Bhaktapur

Pottery square is the place where you can (literally) step back in time. It is where you will get the chance to meet local artisans who have dedicated their lives to keeping the crafts and traditions of Bhaktapur alive. 

Since about 400 years, this Square is dedicated to pottery. The potters of Bhaktapur come from the Prajapati community; it is said that Madhav Singh Prajapati was the first to practice his art at the Pottery Square. And since then, the tradition has been passed to the current generation by their ancestors. 

In the middle of the square, you’ll find hundreds of clay pots drying in the sun and all around it, you’ll see the potters working the clay on their wheels. Note that the potters are working in the morning and make the pottery dry in the afternoon. So, try to privilege (early) mornings to visit Pottery Square.

Navadurga Temple

The Navadurga temple is probably the most underrated temple in Bhaktapur. This temple is extremely beautiful, unspoiled, and surprisingly, not mentioned in most of the tourist guidebooks.

Navadurga temple is dedicated to the nine different forms of Goddess Durga (incarnation of the Goddess Parvati): Shailaputri, Brahmacharini, Chandraghanta, Kushmanda, Skandamata, Katyayani, Kaalratri, Mahagauri, and Siddhidhatri.

The temple is located on the first floor; anyone is welcome to enter and see the magnificent masks of Durga (masks used during the Navadurga Jatra festival). 

Museums in Bhaktapur

There are three museums worth visiting in Bhaktapur:

The National Art Museum 

Inaugurated in 1960, the National Art museum is housed in the western wing of the former Royal Palace. The museum showcases traditional paintings of Nepal (including old Paubha scroll paintings ~ Thangka), manuscripts dating back to the 14th century, old sculptures and murals. The stone section is located on the ground floor and the paintings and manuscripts section on the second floor.

The Woodcarving Museum 

Located at the Dattatreya Square, facing the Brass & Bronze museum, there is the beautiful Woodcarving museum. This museum is, in fact, housed inside the Pujari Math, the oldest Math (Maths are the residences of Hindu priests) in the Kathmandu Valley, and showcases some of the finest traditional woodcarvings of Bhaktapur.

The Brass & Bronze Museum 

Facing the Woodcarving museum, you’ll find the Brass & Bronze museum. This museum is housed inside a 15th century old building and showcases traditional metalwork.

Please note that the entry ticket to the National Art Museum (150NPR for foreigners) is valid for the Woodcarving museum and Brass and Bronze museum as well. Keep your ticket with you when visiting the 3 museums.

Ponds in Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur possesses many ponds dating back to the medieval period. They were used as reservoirs to store water for household consumption, drinking purposes and bathing rituals. Here are the two most popular ponds in Bhaktapur (Siddha Pokhari and Kamal Pokhari), plus one secret pond worth visiting (the other Naag Pokhari): 

Siddha Pokhari

Built by King Yakshya Malla in the 15th century, Siddha Pokhari is one of the oldest ponds in Bhaktapur. It is also one of the most beautiful. You can find this pond quite easily near the city gate of Bhaktapur. It is a very popular spot among locals.

Kamal Pokhari

Kamal Pokhari, also known as the ‘Lotus pond’, is one of the most famous ponds in Bhaktapur. It is located near the beautiful Kamal Binayak temple of Lord Ganesh, on the way to Nagarkot.

The other Naag Pokhari

There is the famous Naga Pokhari (Royal Bath) located inside the old Royal Palace grounds. But there is another historical pond also named ‘Naag Pokhari’ (and also with a King Cobra at its center) located in Thalachhen tole, Bhaktapur, not far from Dattatreya square.

It is a very peaceful place with some child playgrounds around the pond. 

Handicrafts Workshops in Bhaktapur

Known as “a living cultural museum”, Nepal is blessed with a rich heritage of traditional handicrafts. Bhaktapur’s oldest and most precious treasures are clay masks, traditional paintings (including the Thangka paintings), wooden handicrafts and pottery of course!

Potters of Bhaktapur & Pottery workshops

Bhaktapur is famous for its pottery. There are two famous pottery squares: one near Taumadhi square and the other near Dattatreya square. The best one is located near Taumadhi square.

As mentioned above, the Pottery square (near Taumadhi) is where you will get the chance to meet local artisans. It is the perfect place to observe potters, witness the various stages of the ceramics creation process and learn the ancient art of pottery from a local expert (from the processing of clay to spinning the wheel). A must-try in Bhaktapur!

Thangka Painting lessons

There are many Thangka Painting shops in Bhaktapur and some of them offer Thangka Painting lessons. Thangka Painting is very rich with symbolism and it takes a lifetime to learn and master this Tibetan art. Nevertheless, some schools offer the possibility to be introduced to the Thangka art for a short period of time.

Woodcarving workshops

Woodcarving in Bhaktapur

There are some guest houses and shops located near Dattatreya square that offer woodcarving lessons. There is also the possibility to visit woodcarving galleries and participate in woodcarving workshops (from 1 week up to 3 months).

Handicrafts shopping

Bhaktapur is the best place to see craftsmanship in action. If you wish to buy traditional handicrafts first hand, from pottery and paintings to woodcarving and Nepali masks, surely, you’ll find something for you in Bhaktapur. Besides, it is not every day that you’ll have the opportunity to get an authentic insight into local artisans’ lives.


Bhaktapur Food Specialties

In Bhaktapur, avoid the rooftops selling continental food for the tourists and get ready to experience the traditional local food! The real deals are tucked away in small alleys, far from the tourist traps.

If you visit Bhaktapur, you absolutely have to taste some of its local food specialties: 

Juju Dhau

Bhaktapur is famous for its King of Curds (or King of Yoghurts) known as “JuJu Dhau”.

Juju Dhau is made of fresh buffalo milk and served in a small clay pot. Sweet, creamy and thick with a crunchy layer, Juju Dhau is seriously the best yogurt I’ve ever tasted. It is delicious. 

How to know if a Juju dhau is of great quality? Well reverse the pot, shake it and if nothing falls down, it means that you’re eating the original Juju Dhau.

Where?

You’ll easily find many shops and stalls selling Juju Dhau in Bhaktapur. Juju Dhau is from Bhaktapur and most of the shops sell great Juju dhau. 

Bara / Wo 

Bhaktapur’s other famous specialty is Bara, a Newari pancake made from lentil flour; you can add other items such as eggs, spinach, minced meat, etc.

Where?

The best place to try Baras in Bhaktapur is ‘Aama ko Bara Pasal’ which literally means ‘the Bara shop of Mother’. The eatery is open for 50 years. You can find the place on Google Maps; it is called ‘Hole in the Wall’.

Choila with Thon (Chhyang)

Choila is a grilled meat (buffalo, mutton or chicken) that is known for its spiciness. The meat is blackened and crunchy on the outside and pink and tender inside. Then, the meat is marinated in a combination of spices. Often served with Chhyang (a local alcoholic beverage made from fermented rice), this mouth-watering specialty is most of the time eaten as a snack.

Where?

‘Choila Specialist’ is the best place to try Choila in Bhaktapur.

Yomari 

Yomari is a Newari delicacy that is very popular in Bhaktapur. It is a steam rice dough filled with brown cane sugar, ghee and sesame seeds (chaku). We’ve also tried the other version with khuwa (condensed milk).

There is even a Newari festival named after the delicacy, ‘Yomari Punhi’, that marks the end of the rice harvest (December).

Samay Baji

Samay Baji or ‘Newari Khaja set’ is a famous (and generous) Newari meal that comprises a lot of different dishes including beaten rice, soybeans, black beans, meat (meat curry or sukuti or choila), bara, fried fish, spinach, aloo (potatoes), a fried boiled egg, sel roti, achaar (pickles), etc. Many other items can be added depending on the recipe.

Watch our Food Tour in Bhaktapur


Main Festivals in Bhaktapur

Bisket Jatra

Bisket Jatra in Bhaktapur

Bisket Jatra is a 9-day festival celebrated in Bhaktapur. It begins 4 days before the Nepali New Year. 

The festival starts with a Tantric ritual at the Bharaibnath temple in Taumadhi Square. A large chariot (called ‘Rath’) with the idol of Bharaiv and another chariot with the idol of Goddess Bhadrakali are pulled all over Bhaktapur. Then, there is a giant tug of war between the eastern side and western side of the town and each team tries to get the chariot on their side. Eventually, the winning side is in charge of bringing the chariots to Kalna Tole where a 25-meter high lingo (pole) is erected. 

In the Nepalese New Year’s Eve (Mid-April), the pole is pulled down during another tug of war between each sides of the town and the New Year officially begins when the lingo touches the ground. During the next four days, the chariots are pulled all over the town so all people can see and worship the Gods.

Gai Jatra 

Like Mexico, Nepal also has its ‘Day of the Dead’, except that it lasts for 8 days. Gai Jatra, also known as the festival of cows (‘Gai’ means ‘cow’ in Nepali), commemorates the death of loved ones during the year.

The festival takes place in all the Kathmandu Valley but the one in Bhaktapur is the most impressive. Families who lost someone parade in the town with photos of their loved ones in a chariot; and a parade with many chariots can be seen all over the town. The children parade in the streets dressed as Cows, Gods, or Yogis wearing a mustache. Many dance, and comedy and satire shows are performed in the streets. The festival is celebrated during the month Bhadra on the Nepali calendar (which usually falls in August – September) and lasts for 8 days.

Gatha Muga festival 

Gatha Muga festival is a Newari festival that marks the start of the festive season (in Kathmandu and Lalitpur, it is called Gathe Mangal festival), and usually falls in July. The festival celebrates the defeat of evil. The effigies of the demon Ghantakarna are erected during the day and burnt in the evening.

Nava Durga Jatra

Nava Durga Jatra is a mask dance ritual of the nine Durgas and marks the reincarnation process of the Nava Durga deities (nine different forms of the Goddess Durga). The festival starts on Dashain (usually in October or November) and lasts until June. Then, in June, the masks are burned and new masks are made one month before Dashain (around August).


How to get to Bhaktapur?

The easiest ways to reach Bhaktapur are by:

  • Taxi (around 800-1000NPR from Thamel).
  • Bus from Ratna Park (around 50NPR). 
  • Tootle, a Nepali app that allows you to get an easy ride inside Kathmandu by matching you with bikers who are on your way.
  • Pathao, same kind of app as above but working with cars as well.

Map


Where to stay in Bhaktapur?

Bhaktapur is a great place to immerse yourself in the local life. 

If you wish to immerse yourself in the local culture, favor a homestay instead of a hotel. I am currently working on the possibility to introduce families willing to open their homes to travelers. Don’t hesitate to contact me if you want to experience immersive travel in Nepal.

For other options:

Thagu Chhen is one of the most unique places to stay in Bhaktapur. The place offers small suites (kind of apartments) at an affordable price. 

If you want to stay inside Old Bhaktapur, choose the Peacock Guest House at the Dattatreya Square.


For more travel inspiration in Nepal, visit my Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/paris_kathmandu/


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