Food is one of the most fabulous ways to immerse yourself in a country’s culture and learn about its heritage and traditions.
Nepali food is so generous and unbelievably tasty. We are planning to do many, many (seriously many!!) food hunts in Kathmandu and all over Nepal as well. And what better place to start our food hunt series than Boudhanath?
Boudhanath is one of my absolute favorite neighborhoods in Kathmandu; it is the perfect place to discover the local Tibetan and Sherpa food scene. And trust me, it isn’t on Trip Advisor that you will find out where are the best local restaurants (or ‘Khaja Ghar’ as we say in Nepali). TripAdvisor reviews are mostly written by tourists, rarely by locals.
The eateries and restaurants we’ve visited are largely frequented by locals. And they are 100% authentic and unique.
With this article, you’ll be able to plan your very own local food experience in Boudha without hassle.
Here’s our list of the top 22 must try food in Boudhanath with the exact location and price of each item.
Table of Contents
Watch my Boudha Food Experience Video
There are only 21 food items in this video as the dish ‘Phalgi’ is only served in winter and we couldn’t cover it this time. However, you can find more about this dish below.
Top 22 Must Try Food in Boudha
Laphing
What’s the best summer snack to have in Boudha? To me, no doubt, Laphing! It is definitely my favorite snack!
Laphing is a cold gelatinous spicy noodle dish (looks like cannelloni cut into slices but definitely a different taste) made of mung bean or wheat flour.
Laphing was brought to Kathmandu by Tibetans but it originally came from the Sichuan province in China where it is known as ‘Liangfen’. It is now an important part of the Nepali food scene.
There are two kinds of laphings: dry laphing and jhol laphing (soup laphing). Both taste heavenly but I have a preference for jhol laphing. Laphing can be white or yellow (although there is a new trend with blue laphing lately). There are more variations of laphings nowadays like wai wai laphing (with the instant noodles) or chips laphing. If you don’t like spicy food or cannot stand it, you can ask to not put much spices or not put them at all.
Laphing is ideal for a quick snack, and cheap too. Once you’ve tasted it, chances are you’ll become addicted. In summer, I always crave for laphing!
Where?
Laphing is probably the most popular snack in Boudha. There are many eateries serving laphing in Boudhanath nowadays. CD Laphing center is the oldest restaurant serving laphing in Kathmandu. The owner, Sonam Tenzin, is very friendly; he used to sell CDs/ DVDs before and served occasionally laphing as well at his shop; his laphing quickly became very popular. When internet took over CDs, DVDs and cassettes, the shop became a full-time laphing restaurant.
Price: NPR 50 for plain laphing and jhol laphing / NPR 60 for chow chow laphing
Rildok
Rildok, also known as Rildhuk, is a flavorful Sherpa soup. It is prepared by boiling potatoes and pounding them in a traditional way (with a mortar and a huge pestle) until you have a squishy and sticky dough. It is then divided into small pieces, formed into soft and fluffy dumplings, and poured in a tasty broth.
Rildok are quite similar to the Italian gnocchis but lighter, fluffier and juicier. A delicious meal to try in Boudha, especially in the winter.
Where?
‘Himalayan Sherpa Food House’ is probably the most authentic Sherpa restaurant in Boudha; they make fresh rildok (and their rikikur is heavenly). The restaurant isn’t easy to find (and isn’t on Google Maps): it is located inside a small alley around the Stupa, next to Namaste Bead Handicrafts, near Himalayan Java.
Price: NPR 100
Sha Phaley
Sha Phaley, also known as Shabhaley, Shyafaley or Shapale, is a popular snack in Nepal.
Shabhaley traces its origin from Tibet. It is a circular or semicircular bread stuffed with either veg or meat, deep fried (or sometimes pan fried), and eaten hot. Sha Phaley literally means ‘Meat Bread’. It is quite similar to Argentinian empanadas.
I must admit that I wasn’t a big fan of Shabhaley as I usually found it quite oily but the Shabhaleys in Boudha are thin (not too heavy and not at all oily) and very yummy. If you want to try Shaphaley, try it in Boudha!
Where?
A small alley on the eastern side of the stupa (tucked between ‘Lungta Store’ and ‘Boudha Stupa Thangka Centre’) where you can find many little authentic Tibetan eateries. This is a popular place among locals for breakfast; all of the eateries there serve sha phaley as locals often eat them for breakfast. One of our favorite places for Sha Phaley is ‘Lhanzom Khaja Ghar’.
Price: NPR 150
Thenthuk / Shyakpa
Thenthuk, also known as Shyakpa in Sherpa, is a Tibetan soup made of hand-pulled dough, a lot of fresh vegetables, and meat (buff, mutton or chicken). Originally, Thenthuk comes from the Amdo region in Tibet. In Tibetan language, ‘Then’ means ‘pull’ and ‘thuk’ noodles.
Thenthuk is quite different than thukpas as the dough used for the thenthuk is flattened and hand-ripped into small rectangular pieces. Thenthuk soup is also usually thicker and spicier than the thukpa soup. You can also order the ‘fried version’ of Thenthuk.
I first discovered Shyakpa back in 2016; my friend Nuru introduced me to the soup version of Shyakpa. I didn’t know back then that Thenthuk and Shyakpa were quite similar. Krishna and I, then, tried Thenthuk assuming it was different. We ended up discovering that Shyakpa was the Sherpa version of Thenthuk.
We recently tried the fried version of Thenthuk. Both versions are amazing. I will suggest to order the soup version in winter and the fried version in summer.
Where?
Bod Thap Restaurant (located on an open space at the end of a small alley on the eastern side of the stupa tucked between ‘Lungta Store’ and ‘Boudha Stupa Thangka Centre’) is an authentic Tibetan restaurant, and serves a wide range of traditional Tibetan dishes. It is one of the best places serving thenthuk and fried thenthuk in Boudha.
Price: NPR 160 for Buff Thenthuk and NPR 170 for Fried Buff Thenthuk
Rikikur
Rikikur is a traditional Himalayan breakfast dish and comes from the Sherpa community. It is a delicious potato pancake (‘Riki’ means potato and ‘Kur’ means pancake) that is usually served with yak (‘nak’) butter and serkam mixed with green chillies.
Potatoes are an important part of the Sherpa cuisine. Even though potatoes were only introduced to the Khumbu region in the 19th century, it became Sherpa’s main staple food. The Sherpas quickly became experts on how to perfectly cook potatoes.
The rikikurs in Boudhanath always taste heavenly. Always fresh, always tasty. The best pancakes I’ve ever had. I am drooling just by thinking of it!
Where?
We had an epic Sherpa breakfast at ‘Himalayan Sherpa Food House’, probably the most authentic Sherpa restaurant in Boudha. They make mouth-watering rikikur (and their rildok is delicious as well). The restaurant isn’t easy to find: it is located inside a small alley around the Stupa, next to Namaste Bead Handicrafts, near Himalayan Java.
Price: NPR 160 for 1 set of Rikikur (2 pancakes)
Gyuma
Gyuma is a Tibetan blood sausage made of yak (or goat/ sheep/ buffalo) meat and blood mixed with tsampa (roasted barley flour) and salt; the mixture is then stuffed inside the yak’s casing (intestine) and boiled.
Gyuma is quite similar to ‘boudin’ sausage (boudin noir) in France but with some considerable differences:
–The French version uses pork meat only; Tibetans use yak, goat, sheep or buffalo.
–The Tibetan version has more chunks of meat in it; blood sausage in France is softer and juicer.
–In France, they sometimes add apple pieces and onions. For Gyuma, they mix Tsampa with the blood (to make the sausage thicker).
Where?
We went to the small Derge restaurant, next to the Manakamana Mini market (Phulbari street). You won’t find this place on Google Maps but you can watch our Gyuma video on YouTube for the directions. The owner is so kind and friendly; you’ll immediately feel like home. We tried the Buff Gyuma at Derge’s. The portions are generous and the sausage is very tasty.
Price: NPR 500
Butter Tea (Su Cha / Po Cha)
Butter tea, also known as ‘Su cha’ in Sherpa or ‘Po cha’ in Tibetan, is a popular traditional drink from the Himalayas (Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan mainly). Po Cha is made from tea leaves (Pu-erh), yak or cow butter (‘Nak’ is the female of the yak so we should theoretically call it ‘nak butter’), milk or water, and Himalayan salt.
Butter tea is one of the best beverages for high altitudes. It boosts energy, prevents dry and chapped lips, and helps people living in the Himalayas stay hydrated.
For breakfast, butter tea is often served with tsampa (roasted barley flour), usually by pouring the tea over it.
Butter tea is quite different than any other tea beverages I’ve tried before. The taste is unusual: it is salty and buttery, and warms you up in winter. Not many foreigners like it as the taste is so unique, but for me, it was love at first sight (‘at first taste’), I love it! You should give it a try.
Where?
You can easily find butter tea in Boudha, at the local Khaja Ghar around the stupa or in the back alleys. Most of the Tibetan eateries serve butter tea. However, many use ‘cow milk’; if you want to try real ‘Butter tea made with yak butter’, head to ‘Bod Thap restaurant’ (same location where you can find Thukpa and Thenthuk).
Butter tea: NPR 30.
Keema Noodles
Keema noodles is my new guilty pleasure. Since I discovered it, I totally forgot about chowmein or spaghetti.
Keema noodles are very famous in Boudha. It is quite similar to spaghetti Bolognese but the noodles used are thicker and whiter, and the sauce is a mix of soy sauce, Timur (Sichuan pepper), garlic, ginger, onions and mustard oil. They also give you chilli sauce on side so you can add it as per your taste (which I really appreciated!).
The most popular Keema Noodles dish is the one served with minced Buffalo meat. However, it is nowadays possible to find versions with chicken, lamb, mutton or pork.
Where?
‘Khawa Karpo Tasty Noodle Factory’ is very famous for their freshly made noodles. They are known for making the best keema noodles in all Kathmandu. Their noodles are simply amazing. You can choose the adequate portion you like the most as well: full plate or half plate depending on your hunger level.
Price:
Veg Full: NPR 130
Veg Half: NPR 110
Buff Full: NPR 170
Buff Half: NPR 140
Thulo Momo (Pojay)
Thulo means ‘big’ in Nepali, and thulo momo are just that, big Nepali dumplings filled with veg or meat. One thulo momo is approximately the size of 3-4 momo.
Thulo momo are also known as ‘Pojay’ in Tibetan. The dough is quite different than the one used for regular momo; the wrapper of Pojay is tougher and thicker, quite similar to a bun (but lighter). The filling is usually richer and juicer than the classic momo too. If there is a similarity, I’ll say that ‘Pojay’ is quite close to the Georgian ‘Khinkali’.
Most of the places serve 4 pieces of ‘Pojay’ per plate.
Where?
We had our ‘Thulo momo’ at Shambala Café in Boudhanath. They serve 5 pieces of huge Pojay per plate. Their Thulo momo are just amazing.
Price: NPR 220 (5 Buff Pojay)
Mokthuk
Mokthuk is a Tibetan dish that consists of dumplings served in a flavorful vegetable broth. You can order either a vegetarian Mokthuk or a meat Mokthuk.
Mokthuk is somehow similar to Jhol momo (momo soup); however, the momo used for mokthuk are smaller and flat (it is called ‘tsi tsi momo’ in reference to its mouse-shape) and the broth is thinner and somehow more flavorful than Jhol momo (in my opinion).
Where?
We ordered a delicious ‘Mokthuk’ at Amdo Kitchen located inside the Kalimpong Complex in Boudhanath. A great place to visit.
Price: NPR 200
Thukpa
Krishna and I have been eating thukpas for years now and we’ve tried it in many, many various ways. As a matter of fact, Krishna makes very good thukpas himself (see recipe here).
Thukpa is a traditional Himalayan noodle soup which originated in Tibet. Thukpa is a very popular dish in Nepal, especially in winter. You can eat it either veg or with meat. One of my favorite thukpas is the buff thukpa. In Boudha, most of the Khaja Ghar make delicious thukpas.
Where?
Bod Thap Restaurant (same restaurant serving Thenthuk and real Yak butter tea ~ see above) also serves great Buff thukpas.
‘Khawa Karpo Tasty Noodle Factory’ is very famous for their freshly made noodles. They also make some of the best thukpas in Kathmandu. You can choose your adequate portion as well: full plate or half plate. Half plate is largely enough for one person.
Price: NPR 170 (at Khawa Karpo)
NPR 160 (at Bod Thap)
Tingmo
Tingmo, also known as ‘Ting Momo’ or ‘T Momo’, is a Tibetan steamed bread roll.
It is shaped like a rose and its texture is soft, airy and fluffy. Many think it’s a big momo (due to the name) but unlike momos, tingmos are plain and don’t contain any fillings; it is in fact more similar to a plain Chinese bun. People typically eat their tingmos with curry, chili sauce, soup (such as Aloo Phingsha or Shapta) and/or achhar.
Tingmo is one of our son’s favorites! It is very delicious; kids love their airy texture ~ and so do most adults.
Where?
Most of the Tibetan Khaja Ghar (‘eateries’) in Boudhanath serve Tingmo. We had pretty good (and huge) tingmos at ‘Lhanzom Khaja Ghar’; you can find this place at the end of a small alley on the eastern side of the stupa (with backpacks tucked between two stores: one selling souvenirs ‘Lungta Store’ and the other ‘Boudha Stupa Thangka Centre’). I highly recommend this place for a Tibetan breakfast.
Price: NPR 30 per piece
Aloo Phing Sha
Aloo Phing Sha is a Tibetan spicy dish composed of rice noodles (vermicelli), spinach, potatoes and slice meat (usually buff).
We tried a (dry) Aloo Phingsha the last time we went to Boudha for breakfast; however, Aloo Phing Sha is (most of the time) served as a soup/ stew and eaten with Tingmo. The dry/ fried version is quite good too.
Where?
The same small alley on the eastern side of the stupa (where you can also find tingmos) will lead you to a hidden open space with a lot of small eateries (Khaja Ghar). All of them serve Aloo Phing Sha and Tingmos. We took our dry Aloo phingsha at ‘Lhanzom Khaja Ghar’.
Price: NPR 300
Ghyu Momo
There’s nothing more comforting than the Nepalese momo.
Although momo are very popular in India, Momo originate from Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan. Momo are dumplings that share similarities with the Chinese jiaozi, Georgian khinkali, Polish pierogi, Korean mandu, Japanese gyoza and French ravioli.
There is quite a lot of varieties of momo now, such as steamed momo, kothey momo (pan fried), Jhol momo (soup momo), c-momo (chilly momo), fried momo, etc. But one of the juiciest is definitely the ‘Ghyu momo’.
Ghyu momo are momo with clarified butter (ghee) and filled with steamed meat (usually buffalo meat).
How does it taste? Better than the classic momo. The buttery touch gives an amazing taste to the meat. If you like juicy momo, head there!
Where?
Our favorite place to eat ghyu momo in Boudha is ‘Nuwakote Bhairabhi Khaja Ghar’. They have the juiciest momo I’ve ever tasted.
Price: NPR 200
Shapta
Shapta is a Tibetan dish consisting of slices of stir fried buff meat with vegetables, sauce and chilli.
There are two versions of Shapta: gravy shapta or stir fried shapta. When ordering gravy shapta, it is usually served with Tingmo (steamed bread roll).
The Shapta we had at Boudha wasn’t the gravy version but the stir-fried version.
Where?
Lhanzom Khaja Ghar (located at the same hidden open place where many Khaja Ghar serve Tingmo, Thenthuk, Thukpa and Aloo Phingsha) serves delicious stir fried Shapta. But you can easily find gravy shapta at Tibetan Khaja Ghar in Boudha.
Price: NPR 350
Cheley
Cheley is a Tibetan dish made of buff or goat tongue. The tongue is sliced and then pan fried.
I was a little reluctant to try Cheley as the slices really look like a tongue and there is no sauce, vegetables or spices served with it. But the meat is tender and tasty. Quite good after all!
Where?
Kora Restaurant serves Cheley (Fried Tongue) and Tongue Salad in Boudha.
Price: NPR 400
Aloo Sipsip
Aloo Sipsip are thin potato strips stir fried with spring onions and spices. It is perfect as a side dish. Aloo Sipsip is simple really but quite tasty.
The Tibetan Aloo sipsip dish is very different than French fries in case you wondered. It is somehow similar to the Sichuan stir-fried potatoes. Aloo sipsip isn’t crunchy, neither soft but quite oily as they usually use cooking oil, soy sauce and vinegar to cook it.
Where?
Most of the Tibetan restaurants in Boudha serve Aloo Sipsip. The small alley on the eastern side of the stupa (where you can also find tingmos, thukpas, thenthuk and aloo phingshas) will lead you to a hidden open space with a lot of small eateries (Khaja Ghar). All of them serve Aloo Sipsip.
Price: NPR 150
Tsampa
Tsampa is a Himalayan and Tibetan staple food made from roasted barley (traditionally, barley is roasted in hot sand), and then turned into flour. The flour is often mixed with butter tea or water. It can also be prepared by adding milk and butter or ghee (tsampa porridge) or as a dough (‘pa’). It is way tastier than it looks. Tsampa is known as the breakfast of the Dalai Lama.
Since we came back to Nepal, we took the habit to eat tsampa for breakfast; we usually make porridge as it is super easy to do. Erik, our son, really loves it and eats it every day, mixed with fruits.
If you want to make your own Tsampa meal at home, like us, you can buy tsampa in the streets around Boudhanath. You can make your own porridge just by adding milk, butter and the ingredients of your choice such as bananas, nuts, blueberries, mangoes, etc. You can also make tsampa energy balls, tsampa cookies, tsampa doughs; tsampa can also be used for making the crust of a pie.
Tsampa is very similar to Sattu which is made from roasted grains and also transformed into flour.
Where?
You can easily buy tsampa flour in the small alleys around the Boudhanath stupa.
Price: Tsampa flour: Around NPR 200-250/kg
Khapse
Khapse (meaning ‘mouth-eat’ in Tibetan) is a deep-fried Tibetan biscuit traditionally prepared and eaten during Lhosar, the Tibetan New Year. But nowadays, you can find them all year round in Boudha.
Khapse are made with flour, sugar, eggs, milk and butter, and then deep fried in oil until they turn golden brown. There are many different shapes and sizes of khapse. Khapse are very tasty, and make a perfect snack.
Where?
Khapse can be found in the backstreets of Boudhanath. You’ll find many food stalls selling khapse in Fulbari street.
Price: Between NPR 100-250
Lowa Khatsa (Only during festivals or special occasions)
Lowa Khatsa is a Tibetan dish made of stuffed buff (or yak or goat) lung slices. The lungs are stir fried with onions, tomatoes, capsicums and chilli.
I wanted to try this Tibetan delicacy since a long time but it isn’t easily available. I was a little afraid to try ‘lungs’ per say. It appears that when you look closely, it does look like lungs. The texture is really soft and it doesn’t taste like meat really. The dish is extremely spicy.
Where?
We ordered our Lowa Khatsa from Little Tibet (Thamel) for NPR 290. Some Tibetan Khaja Ghar serve it in Boudha during Losar or other special occasions.
Phalgi (Only in winter)
Phalgi is a delicious Sherpa stew made of corn, potatoes (of course!), kidney beans, Lukla beans and buff (there are also vegetarian versions). This dish is usually eaten in winter. It is very nutritious and warm. Yummy!
Where?
You can find Phalgi right next door to the Himalayan Sherpa Food House in a small alley around the Stupa, next to Namaste Bead Handicrafts and Himalayan Java.
Amdo Shaphaley
Amdo Shaphaley is, in fact, quite different than Shaphaley. It is a bun stuffed with buff or veg.
This version comes from the Amdo region in Tibet. It is (sort of) a combination between the Amdo Bhaley (Tibetan bread) and Shaphaley.
Where?
At the end of a small alley on the eastern side of the stupa (tucked between ‘Lungta Store’ and ‘Boudha Stupa Thangka Centre’) where you can find many little authentic Tibetan eateries. Some of them serve occasionally Bhaley stuffed with buff (Amdo Shaphaley).
Price: Around NPR 200
Note: The prices indicated are to be considered as of Summer 2021.